A SECOND VISIT

TO


THE UNITED STATES

OF

NORTH AMERICA.

============

BY CHARLES LYELL,  F.R.S.

PRESIDENT OF THE GEOLOGICAL SOCIETY OF LONDON, AUTHOR OF "THE PRINCIPLES OF GEOLOGY" AND "TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA."

============


IN TWO VOLUMES.

VOLUME II.

NEW YORK:

Wiley and Putnam.

1849.


This electronic edition prepared by Dr. David C. Bossard
from original documents in the library holdings of Dartmouth College.

July, 2006.

Copyright © 2006 by David C. Bossard.



CONTENTS OF VOLUME II.


 CHAPTER XX.

PILGE

 013  014  015  016  017  018  019  020  021

Darien to Savannah. -- Black Baptist Church and Preacher
. -- Negro Prayer. -- Negro Intelligence. -- Bribery of Irish Voters. -- Dirt-Eaters. -- Railway Expedition on Hand-Car. -- Geology of Georgia. -- Negroes more progressive in Upper Country. -- Indifference of Georgians to Winter Cold. -- Want of Elbow-Room in Pine-Barrens.

[019] [Travel to Savannah, Georgia] "In proportion as these colored people fill places of trust, they are involuntarily treated more as equals by the whites. The prejudices which keep the races asunder would rapidly diminish, were they not studiously kept up by artificial barriers, unjust laws, and the reaction against foreign interference."

CHAPTER XXI.

 022  023  024  025  026  027  028  029  030  031  032  033

Indian Mounds and Block-house at Macon, Georgia. -- Fashionists
. -- Funeral of Northern Man. -- Geology and siicified Corals and Shells. -- Stage Traveling to' Milledgeville. -- Negro Children. -- Home-made soap. -- Decomposition of Gneiss. -- Deep Ravines recently excavated after clearing of Forest. -- Man shot in a Brawl. -- Disappointed Place-Hunter. -- Lynch Law in Florida. -- Repeal of English Corn-Laws. -- WarSpirit abating.

CHAPTER XXII.

 034  035  036  037  038  039  040  041  042  043


Macon to Columbus by Stage. -- Rough Traveling. -- Passage of Flint River. -- Columbus. -- Recent Departure of Creek Indians. -- Falls of the Ohatahoochie. -- Competition of Negro and White Mechanics. -- Age of Pine Trees. -- Abolitionist "Wrecker" in Railway Car. -- Runaway' Slave. -- Sale of Novels by Newsboys. -- Character of Newspaper Press. -- <>Geology and Cretaceous Strata, Montgomery. -- Curfew. -- <>Sunday School for Negroes. -- Protracted Meeting.


CHAPTER XXIII.

 044  045  046  047  048  049  050  051  052  053  054

Voyage from Montgomery to Mobile. -- Description of a large River Steamer. -- Shipping of Cotton at Bluffs. -- Fossils collected at Landings. -- Collision of Steamer with the Boughs ofTrees. -- Story of a German Stewardess. -- Emigration of Stephanists from Saxony. -- Perpetuation of Stephanist and Mormon Doctrines. -- Distinct Table for Colored and White Passengers. -- Landing at Claiborne by Torchlight. -- Fossil Shells.


CHAPTER XXIV.

 055  056  057  058  059  060  061  062  063  064  065  066

Claiborne, Alabama. -- Movers to Texas. -- State Debts and Liabilities
. -- Lending Money to half-settled States. -- Rumors of War with England. -- Macon, Alabama. -- Sale of Slaves. -- Drunkenness in Alabama. -- Laws against Dueling. -- Jealousy of Wealth. -- .Emigration to the West. -- Democratic Equality of Whites. -- Skeleton of Fossil Whale or Zeuglodon. -- Voyage to Mobile.

CHAPTER XXV.

 067  068  069  070  071  072  073  074  075  076  077  078  079  080  081  082  083

Voyage from Mobile to Tuscaloosa. -- Visit to the Coal-field of Alabama. --
Its Agreement in Age with the ancient Coal of Europe. -- Absenteeism in Southern States. -- Progress of Negroes. -- Unthriftiness of Slave-Labor. -- University of Tuscaloosa. -- Churches. -- Bankruptcies. -- Judges and Law Courts. -- Geology on the Tombeckbee River. -- Artesian Wells. -- Limestone Bluff of St. Stephens. -- Negro shot by Overseer. -- Involuntary Efforts of the Whites to civilize the Negroes. -- New Statute in Georgia against Black Mechanics. -- Tbe Effects of speedy Emancipation and the free Competition of White and Black Laborers considered.

CHAPTER XXVI.

 084  085  086  087  088  089  090  091  092

Return to Mobile. -- Excursion to the Shores of the Gulf of Mexico
. -- View from Lighthouse. -- Mouth of Alabama River. -- Gnathodon inhabiting Brackish Water. -- Banks of these Fossil Shells far Inland.Miring of Cattle. -- Yellow Fever at Mobile in 1839. -- Fire in same Year. -- Voyage from Mobile to New Orleans. -- Movers to Texas. -- Lake Pontchartrain. -- Arrival at New Orleansm. -- St. Louis Hotel. -- French Aspect of City. -- Carnival. -- Procession of Masks.

CHAPTER XXVII.

 093  094  095  096  097  098  099  100  101

Catholic Cathedral, New Orleans.. -- French Opera. -- Creole Ladies
. -- Quadroons. -- Marriage of Whites with Quadroons. -- St. Charles Theater. -- English Pronunciation. -- Duelist's Grave. -- Ladies' Ordinary. -- Procession of Fire Companies. -- Boasted Saiubrity of New Orleans. -- Goods selling at Northern Prices. -- Mr. Wilde. -- Roman Law. -- Shifting of Capital. to Baton Rouge. -- Debates in Houses of Legislalature. -- Convention and Revision of the Laws. -- Policy of Periodical State Conventions. -- Judges cashiered. -- Limitation of their Term of Office.

CHAPTER XXVIII.

 102  103  104  105  106  107  108  109  110

Negroes not attacked by Yellow Fever. -- History of Mr. Wilde's Poem
. -- The Market, New Orleans. -- Motley Character of Population. -- Levee and Steamers. -- -First sight of Mississippi River. -- View from the Cupola of the St. Charles. -- Site of new Orleans. -- Excursion to Lake Poutchartrain. -- Shell Road. -- Heaps of Gnathodon. -- Excavation for GasWorks. -- Buried upright Trees. -- Père Antoine's Date-palm.

CHAPTER XXIX.

 111  112  113  114  115  116  117  118  119  120  121  122  123  124  125  126  127  128

Excursion from New Orleans to the Mouths of the River. -- Steamboat
Accidents. -- River Fogs. -- Successive growths of Willow on River Bank. -- Pilot-Station of the Balize. -- Lighthouse destroyed by Hurricane. -- Reeds, Shells, and Birds on Mud-banks. -- Driftwood. -- Difficulty of estimating the annual Increase of Delta. -- Action of Tides and Currents. -- Tendency in the old Soundings to be restored. -- Changes of Mouths in a Century inconsiderable. -- Return to New Orleans. -- Battle-ground. -- Sugar-Mill. -- <>Contrast of French and Anglo-American Races. -- Causes of Difference. -- State and Progress of Negroes in Louisiana.

CHAPTER XXX.

 129  130  131  132  133  134  135  136  137  138  139  140  141  142  143  144  145  146  147

Voyage from New Orleans to Port Hudson. -- The Coast, Villas, and Gardens
. -- Cotton Steamers. -- Flat Boats. -- Crevasses, Inundations.Decrease of Steamboat Accidents. -- Snag-Boat. -- Musquitoes.Natural Rafts. -- Bartram on buried Trees at Port Hudson. -- Dr. Carpenter's Observations. -- Landslip described. -- Ancient Subsidence in the Delta followed by an upward Movement, deducible from the buried Forest atPort Hudson.

CHAPTER XXXI.

 148  149  150  151  152  153  154

Fontania near Port Hudson. -- Lake Solitude. -- Floating Island. -- Bony Pike. -- Story of the Devil's Swamp. -- Embarking by Night in SteamBoat. -- Literary Clerk. -- Old Levees undermined
. -- Succession of upright Trees in Bank. -- Raccourci Cut-off. -- Bar at Mouth of Red Ri'rer. -- Shelly Fresh-water Loam of Natcbez. -- Recent Ravines in TableLand. -- Bones of extinct Quadrupeds. -- Human Fossil Bone. -- Question of supposed co-existence of Man with extinct Mammalia discussed. -- Tornado at Natchez. -- Society, Country Houses, and Gardens.Landslips. -- Indian Antiquities.

CHAPTER XXXII.

 155  156  157  158  159  160  161  162  163  164  165  166  167  168  169  170

Natchez. -- Vidalia and Lake Concordia. -- Hybernations of Aligator
. -- Bonfire on Floating Raft. -- Grand Gulf. -- Magnolia Steamer. -- Vicksburg to Jackson (Mississippi) by Railway. -- Fossils on Pearl River.Ordinary at Jackson. -- Story of Transfer of State-House from Natchez. -- Vote by Ballot. -- Popular Election of Judges. -- Voyage from Vicksburg to Mémphis. -- Monotony of River Scenery. -- Squall of Wind. -- Actors on Board. -- Negro mistaken for White. -- Manners in the Backwoods. -- Inquisitiveness. -- Spoilt Children... -- Equality and Leveling. -- Silence of English Newspapers on Oregon Question.


CHAPTER XXXIII.

 171  172  173  174  175  176  177  178  179  180  181  182

Bluffs at Memphis. -- New Madrid. -- No Inn. -- Undermining of River Bank. -- Examination of Country shaken by Earthquake of 1811-12
. -- Effects of Passage of Waves through Alluvial Soil. -- Circular Cavities or Sand-Bursts. -- Open Fissures. -- Lake Eulalie drained by Shocks. -- Borders of Sunk Country, west of New Madrid. -- Dead Trees standing erect. -- A slight Shock felt. -- Trade in Peltries increased by Earthquake. -- Tree erect in new formed Lakes. -- Indian Tradition of Shocks. -- Dreary Forest Scene. -- Rough Quarters. -- Slavery in Missouri.

CHAPTER XXXIV.

 183  184  185  186  187  188  189  190  191  192  193  194  195  196  197  198  199

Alluvial Formations of the Mississippi, ancient and modern. -- Delta defined. -- Great Extent of Wooded Swamps. -- Deposits of pure Vegetable Matter. -- Floors of Blue Clay with Cypress Roots
. -- Analogy to Ancient Coal-measures. -- Supposed "Epoch of existing Continents.". -- Depth of Frethwater Strata in Deltas. -- Time required to bring down the Mud of the Mississippi. -- New Experiments and Observations required. -- Great Age of buried and living Cypress-trees. -- Older and newer Parts of Alluvial Plain. -- UpraiseI Terraces of Natchez, &c., and the Ohio, the Monuments of an older Alluvial Formation. -- Grand Oscillation of Level. -- The ancient Valleys inhabited by Quadrupeds now extinct. -- Land-shells not changed. -- Probable Rate of Subsidence and Upheaval. -- Relative Age of the ancient Alluvium of the Mississippi, and the Northern Drift.

CHAPTER XXXV.

 200  201  202  203  204  205  206  207  208  209

Departure from New Madrid. -- Night-watch for Steamers. -- Scenery of the Ohio River. -- Mount Vernon, Ornithology. -- No Undergrowth in Woods. -- Spring Flowers. -- Visit to Dr. Dale Owen, New Harmony.Fossil Forest of erect Trees in Coal-measures. -- Movers migrating Westward
. -- Voyage to Louisville. -- Professional Zeal of one of "the Pork Aristocracy.". -- Fossil Coral-reef at the Falls of the Ohio, Louisville. -- Fossil Zoophites as perfect as recent Stone-corals.

CHAPTER XXXVI.

 210  211  212  213  214  215  216  217  218  219  220  221  222

Louisville. -- Noble Site for a Commercial City. -- Geology. -- Medical Students. -- Academical Rotation in Office. -- Episcopal Church.Preaching against the Reformation. -- Service in Black Methodist Church. -- Improved Condition of Negroes in Kentucky. -- A colored Slave married as a free White
. -- Voyage to Cincinnati. -- Naturalized English Artisan gambling. -- Sources of Anti-British Antipathies. -- <>Progress of Cincinnati. -- <>Increase of German Settlers. -- Democracy of Romanists. -- Geology of Mill Creek. -- Land Tortoises. -- Observatory. -- Cultivation of the Vine. -- Sculpture by Hiram Powers

CHAPTER XXXVII.

 223  224  225  226  227  228  229  230  231  232  233  234  235  236  237  238

Cincinnati to Fittsburg. -- Improved Machinery of Steamer. -- Indian
Mound. -- Gravel Terraces. -- Pittsburg Fire. -- Journey to Greensburg. -- Scenery like England.Oregon War Question. -- Fossil Foot-prints of Air-breathing Reptile in Coal Strata. -- Casts of Mudcracks. -- -Footprints of Birds and Dogs sculptured by Indians. -- Theories respecting the Geological Antiquity of highly organized Vertebrata. -- Prejudices opposed to the Reception of Geological Truths. -- Popular Education the only Means of preventing a Collision of Opinion between the Multitude and the Learned.

[235] [Commenting on reptile tracks discovered 100 feet below the main Pittsburg coal seam]. "Geologists have been in the  habit of taking for granted, that at epochs anterier to the coal there were no birds or air-breathing quadrupeds in existence... I can not conclude these remarks on the geological discoveries made in these remote valleys of the Alleghanies, without alluding to a moral phenomenon, which was forcibly brought before my mind in the course of the investigation. The interest excited by these singular monuments of the olden times, naturally led to animated discussions ... during which the high antiquity of the earth, and the doctrine of former changes in the species of animals and plants inhabiting this planet before the creation of man, wer assumed as established truths. But these views were so new and startling, and so opposed to popular prepossessions, that they drew down much obloquy upon their promulgators, who incurred the censures not only of the multitude, but also of some of the Roman Catholic and Lutheran clergy. ... Several of the ministers of the Lutheran church, who had studied for years in German universities, were too well infomed not to believe in the conclusions established by geologists, respecting the immensity of past time and former vicissitudes, both in animal and vegetable life; but ... they were compelled by prudence to conceal their opinions from their congregations, or they would have lost all influence over them, and might perhaps have seen their churches deserted. Yet by maintaining silence in deference to the opinions of the more ignorant, they become, in some degree, the instruments of countenancing error; nay, they are rearing up the rising generation to be, in their turn, the persecutors of many of their contemporaries, who may hereafter be far in advance in their scientific knowledge.

'To nothing but error,' says a popular writer of our times, 'can any truth be dangerous; and I know not,' he exclaims, 'where else there is seen so altogether tragical a spectacle, as that religion should be found standing in the highways, to say, "Let no man learn the simplest laws of the universe, lest they mislearn the highest. In the name of God the Maker, who said, and hourly yet says, Let there be light, we command that you continue in darkness!" ' [quoting Thomas Carlyle, July, 1848]"

CHAPTER XXXVIII.

 239  240  241  242  243  244  245  246  247

Greensburg to Philadelphia.. -- Crossing the Alleghany Mountains
. -- Scenery. -- Absence of Lakes. -- Harrisburg. -- African Slave-trade. -- Railway Meeting at Philadelphia. -- Borrowing Money for Public Works. -- Negro Episcopal Clergyman. -- Washington. -- National Fair and Protectionist Doctrines. -- Dog-wood in Virginia. -- Excursion with Dr. Wyman. -- Natural History. -- Musk-rats. -- Migration of Hummingbirds to New Jersey.

CHAPTER XXXIX.

 248  249  250  251  252  253  254  255  256  257  258  259  260  261  262  263

New York, clear Atmosphere and gay Dresses. -- Omnibuses. -- -Naming of
Streets. -- Visit to Audubon. -- Croton Aqueduct. -- Harpers' Printing Establishment. -- Large Sale of Works by English and American Authors. -- Cheapness of Books. -- International Copyright. -- Sale of Eugene Sue's Wandering Jew. -- Tendency of the Work. -- Mr. Gallatin on Indian Corn. -- War with Mexico. -- Facility of raising Troops. -- Dr. Dewey preaching against War. -- Cause of Influence of Unitarians. -- Geological Excursion to Albany. -- Helderberg War. -- Voting Thanks to the Third House. -- Place-hunting.Spring Flowers. -- Geology and Taconic System.

CHAPTER XL.

 264  265  266  267  268  269  270  271  272  273  274  275  276

Construction and Management of Railways in America. -- Journey by Long Island from New York to Boston. -- Whale Fishery in the Pacific
. -- Chewing Tobacco. -- Visit to Wenham Lake. -- Cause of the superior Permanence of Wenham Lake Ice. -- Return to Boston. -- Skeletons of Fossil Mastodon. -- Food of these extinct Quadrupeds. -- Anti-war Demonstration. -- Voyage to Halifax. -- Dense Fog. -- Large Group of Icebergs seen on the Ocean. -- Transportation of Rocks by Icebergs. -- Danger of fast Sailing among Bergs. -- Aurora Borealis. -- Connection of this Phenomenon with Drift Ice. -- Pilot with English Newspapers. -- Return toLiverpool.

INDEX  277  278  279  280  281  282  283  284  285  286  287