Library of 19th Century Science:
The Golden Age of Geology

HMS Challenger



NARRATIVE

of the

UNITED STATES

EXPLORING EXPEDITION

DURING THE YEARS

1838, 1839, 1840, 1841, 1842.

by


CHARLES WILKES, U.S.N.
COMMANDER OF THE EXPEDITION
MEMBER OF THE AMERICAN PHILOSOPHICAL SOCIETY, ETC.

In Five Volumes

Volume IV.

Philadephia
Lea and Blenchard

1845

This electronic edition prepared by Dr. David C. Bossard
from the original documents in the holdings of Dartmouth College.

July, 2008

Copyright © 2006 by Dr. David C. Bossard.  All rights reserved.


CONTENTS.

Titlepage  iii

CONTENTS.  v  vi  vii  viii  ix  x  xi  xii


CHAPTER I.   001  002  003  004  005  006  007  008  009  010  011  012  013  014  015  016  017  018  019  020  021  022  023  024  025  026  027  028  029  030  031  032  033  034  035  036  037  038  039  040  041  042  043  044  045  046  047  048
ARRIVAL OF THE KING AT HONOLULU - OUR VISIT TO HIM - KEKAULUOHI - DWELL
INGS AND GARDENS OF FOREIGN RESIDENTS - DWELLINGS OF THE MISSIONARIES
MISSIONARY PRESS - SEAMEN'S CHAPEL - POLITICAL INTERCOURSE WITH FOREIGN
NATIONS - MR. RICHARDS ENGAGED AS DIPLOMATIC AGENT - SUPREME COUNCIL OF
GOVERNMENT - SECOND INTERVIEW WITH THE KING - HISTORY OF THE EVENTS
THAT LED TO THE LAPLACE TREATY - FIRST ARRIVAL OF CATHOLIC PRIESTS
THEY ARE HOSPITABLY RECEIVED - THEY ARE SUSPECTED OF PROMOTING A
REBELLION, AND EXPELLED - RUSSELL TREATY - ATTEMPT TO INTRODUCE PRIESTS
UNDER ITS SANCTION - UNITED ACTION OF CAPTAINS DU PETIT THOUARS AND
BELCHER - MORE PRIESTS ARRIVE - PENAL LAWS AGAINST CATHOLICS ENACTED
THEY ARE REPEALED AT THE INSTANCE OF THE AMERICAN MISSIONARIES -
ARRIVAL OF CAPTAIN LAPLACE - HIS MANIFESTO - HIS DEMANDS - HIS PROSCRIPTION OF
THE MISSIONARIES - CONDUCT OF THE FOREIGN RESIDENTS, AND OF THE NATIVE
CHIEFS - SIGNATURE OF THE TREATY - LAPLACE DEMANDS AND OBTAINS A
COMMERCIAL TREATY - THE LANDS IN ARMS TO CELEBRATE MASS - CONSEQUENCES OF
THE LAPLACE TREATY - THE KING'S FEELINGS IN RELATION TO IT - HIS DESIRE TO
BE RECOGNISED BY THE UNITED STATES - HIS REMONSTRANCE TO THE FRENCH
GOVERNMENT - STATE OF CATHOLICISM  - WRITTEN CONSTITUTION OF HAWAII
ADMINISTRATION OF THE LAWS - CRIMINAL PROCESS - ANCIENT LAWS - SUCCESSION
TO THE THRONE - FEUDAL TENURES - PUNISHMENTS - TABOOS - PROMULGATION OF
LAWS - ORIGIN OF FIEFS - DIVISION OF LANDS - EFFECTS OF THE NEW LAWS
TAXES - REVENUES - EXEMPTION FROM TAX - CRIMES -  HAWAIIAN MYTHOLOGY
TRADITIONS - ASTRONOMY - CALENDAR - IDEA OF ECLIPSES - KNOWLEDGE OF
NAVIGATION  -  FEATS IN SWIMMING  -  SOCIAL ATTAChMENT AND TIES  -  INDOLENCE
ASCRIBED TO THE NATIVES - THEIR AMUSEMENTS - UOLUA - PLAYING IN THE SURF
 - DANCES - CARDS - SEE - SAW - NATIVE PHYSICIANS AND MEDICINE.

CHAPTER II.  049  050  051  052  053  054  055  056  057  058  059  060  061  062  063  064  065  066  067  068  069  070  071  072  073  074  075  076  077  078  079  080  081  082  083  084  085  086
SATURDAY IN HONOLULU - SUNDAY CHURCHES_SCHOOLS - TALENT OF THE
SCHOLARS FOR ARITHMETIC  - BURIAL.GROUND  - GRAVE OF DOUGLASS THE BOTANIST
PLAYS - MAIKA - BUHENEHENE - TIIR0wING THE LANCE - REPAIRS OF THE VESSELS
 - COURT - MARTIAL - PUNISHMENT OF SWEENY, AND TWO MARINES - DISCHARGE
OF SWEENY - POLICE OF HONOLULU - ROADS - EXPEDITION OF THE TENDER - KOLOA
 - DR. PICKERING AND MR. BRACKENRIDGE'S EXCURSION - WAIMEA - DR. SCHOOF
HANAPEPE  - CASCADE  - CULTIVATION  - DECREASING POPULATION - ITS CAUSES
AGRICULTURE -  SCHOOLS - CHURCH  - ISLAND OF NIIHAU - DISTRICT OF KOLOA
JOURNEY ACROSS THE ISLAND OF KAUAI - RIVER WAINIHA  - EXCURSION OF
MESSRS. PEALE AND RJCII - LIHUI - NAWILIWJLI - MR. AND MRS. LAFON - SCHOOLS
AND CIILTRCIIES  - HANAWALE - DEBORAII - IIER FISH - PONDS - WATERFALL - BEAUTIFUL
GROVE - TUTUI - NUT OIL - WAIOLI - AIR. TITCOMB'S CULTURE OF SILK - INDIGO
DIVINE SERVICE - CRUISE OF THE TENDER - WAILIOLI MOUNTAIN - POPULATION OF
HALELEA - RAWAILOA - WA IALUA - MOUNTAINS OF OAHU - SCHOOLS OF WAIALUA
CHURCH  - DISTRICT OF KOOLAU  - CLIMATE OF WAIALVA  -  INDUSTRY - SCHOOLS
CHUECII - POPULATION - INTEMPERANCE - EXCURSION TO THE KAALA MOUNTAINS
EWA - LAULOA - FOSSIL - SHELLS  -  CIIURCH AND SCHOOLS OF EWA  -  POPULATION
EXCURSION TO WAIANAE  -  MAUNA - KAALA - SALT LAKE  - CAVES -  FISH - PONDS
KANEOIIE - PEARL - RIVER HARBOUR - PRODUCTIONS OF PALI - KOOLAU - ITS CLIMATE
 - SCHOOLS - RETURN OF THE FLYING - FISH - FISH - PONDS OF HONOLULU

CHAPTER III.  087  088  089  090  091  092  093  094  095  096  097  098  099  100  101  102  103  104  105  106  107  108
THE TENDER IS DESPATCHED TO HAWAII  - THE PORPOISE SAILS ON A SEPARATE
CRUISE -  PREPARATIONS FOR THE ASCENT OF MAUNA LOA  -  KEALAKEAKUA
NAPOLO - FACE OF THE COUNTRY - ITS PRODUCTIONS - ITS CLIMATE - ITS IMPROVE
MENTS - ITS POPULATION - SCIIOOLS - DISEASES - MONUMENT TO MARK WHERE COOK
WAS KILLED - DISTRICT OF KAILAU - ITS CLIMATE - ITS POPULATION - DWELLINGS
 -  SCHOOLS  -  KUAKINI, OR GOVERNOR ADAMS  - INDUSTRY OF THE NATIVES OF
KAILAU  - TRADE - USEFUL ARTS - COTTON MANUFACTURE  - VICES  - DISEASES
MISSIONARIES - PLANTS - EXCURSION OF THE NATURALISTS  -  TEMPLE OF KAILI
MOUNTAIN GEESE - LAVA STREAMS - OLD CRATERS - GRAZING LANDS - ARRIVAL AT
HILO AND RETURN TO HONOLULU - PLAN FOR THE FURTHER OPERATIONS OF THE
SQUADRON - PEACOCK AND FLYING - FISH - CASE OF GIDEON SMITH - CASE OF CAPTAIN
DOWSETT - PROPOSED EMPLOYMENT OF THE VINCENNES - SAILING OF THE
PEACOCK AND TENDER

CHAPTER IV.  109  110  111  112  113  114  115  116  117  118  119  120  121  122  123  124  125  126  127  128  129  130  131  132  133  134  135  136  137  138  139  140  141  142  143  144  145  146  147  148  149  150  151  152  153  154  155  156  157  158  159  160  161  162  163  164
THE VINCENNES LEAVES HONOLULU -  DRUNKEN PILOT - MESSRS. BRINSMADE AND
JUDD ACCOMPANY US - KANAKAS - PASSAGE TO IBLO - BAY OF 1111.0 - DISTANT
VIEW OF HAWAII - VIEW FROM IIILO BAY - OBSERVATORY ESTABLISHED AT WAIA
KEA - HILO - STRENGTH OF THE PARTY FOR THE ASCENT OF THE MOUNTAIN
CONFUSION AMONG THE NATIVES -  DEPARTURE FROM HILO  - THE KINGS FISH
PONDS -  BYRON'S HILL -  OLAA  -  PAHOIHOI LAVA  -  KAPUAUIII  - IRON MORTAR
TERRITORY OF PELE - FIRST VIEW OF MAUNA LOA - VOLCANO OF KILAUEA
DEPARTURE FROM IT - SCARCITY OF WATER  - CLINKERS -  LOSS OF MR. BRINSMADE'S
STOCK OF WATER -  DESERTER  -  THE WOODED REGION LEFT - CAVES
SUNDAY STATION - RAGSDALE JOINS THE PARTY - DR. JUDD GOES IN SEARCH OF
SNOW - RECRUITING STATION  - DESERTION OF THE NATIVES - FLAG STATION
UNPLEASANT NIGHT - LONGLEY IS MISSED - SUMMIT OF MAUNA LOA REACHED
ARRIVAL THERE OF MESSRS. JUDD AND PICKERING  - CRATER RECONNOITRED
ORIGIN OF THE CLINKERS - CHRISTMAS DAY - LONGLEY IS FOUND - VISIT TO THE
RECRUITING STATION - RETURN TO THE SUMMIT - ARRIVAL OF PROVISIONS FROM
THE SHIP - PENDULUM - HOUSE ERECTED - NEW YEAR'S DAY - PHENOMENA OF THE
CLOUDS - SURVEY OF THE SUMMIT BEGUN - PENDULUM EXPERIMENTS BEGUN
SEVERE STORM - SURVEY OF THE CRATER - EXPERIMENTS ON SOUND - PENDULUM
EXPERIMENTS FINISIIED - MOKU - A.WEO - WEO - IIEIGTIT OF MAUNA KEA - SURVEY OF
THE SUMMIT FINISHED

CHAPTER V.  165  166  167  168  169  170  171  172  173  174  175  176  177  178  179  180  181  182  183  184  185  186  187  188  189  190  191  192  193  194  195
DEPARTURE FROM PENDULUM PEAK -  SYMPTOMS OF THE MOUNTAIN  - SICKNESS
ELECTRICAL PHENOMENA -  DESCENT OF THE MOUNTAIN - ARRIVAL AT KILAUEA
DESCENT OF MESSRS. BUDD AND ELD - LOSS OF A KANAKA - SURVEY OF KILAUEA
SULPHUR - BANK - CIRCUIT OF THE CRATER - THIRD CRATER - LUA PELE - DR. JUDD'S
DESCENT INTO THE CRATER - HIS PERILOUS ADVENTURES - VIEW OF THE ERUPTION
 - SURVEY OF THE FIERY LAKE - BLACK LEDGE - QUANTITY OF MATTER
DISCHARGED - NEW DISPOSITION OF PARTIES - RETURN TO THE COAST - LUA PELE
DEEP CREVICE - KALANOKAMO - PIT AND CONE CRATERS - MAP OF THE SOUTHEAST
PORTION OF IIAWAII - ALEALEA - IKI - PANAU - RECENT ERUPTION - TIMBER FELLED
BY LAVA - TRUNCATED CONES ON THE LAVA - NAMES OF THE CONE - CRATERS
KEKAIIUNANUI - COURSE OF THE STREAM OF LAVA - CRATERS NEAR THE COAST
WHITE OWL - PUNA - KANAKIKI - VOLCANIC SAND - BILLS - CHRYSOLITE  - OLD AND
NEW LAVA - VIEW FROM THE SAND - IIILLS - KEEAU - TRAITS OF NATIVE CHARACTER
 - MODE OF RECKONING DISTANCES - RETURN TO IJILO - PANDANUS TREE
AND ITS USES - DERANGED NATIVE - PENDULUM EXPERIMENTS BEGUN - DISCREPANCIES
IN THEM - APPARATUS REMOVED TO PANEO - STOPPAGE OF THE CLOCK - NEW
DISTURBANCES IN THE EXPERIMENTS - APPARATUS REMOVED TO MOUNT KANUHA
 - THE EXPERIMENTS ARE SUCCESSFUL.

CHAPTER VI. 196  197  198  199  200  201  202  203  204  205  206  207  208  209  210  211  212  213  214  215  216  217  218  219  220  221  222  223  224  225  226  227  228  229  230
ASCENT OF MAUNA KEA BY DR. PICKERING AND MR. BRACKENRIDGE - " LONG ROAD"
 - CASTLE'S STATION - CAVE - LOFTY PLAIN - TERMINAL PEAKS - DESCENT OF THE
MOUNTAIN - FATE OF MR. DOUG LASS - PUAHAI - MR. CASTLE'S RESIDENCE - THEIR
RETURN TO HILO - SURVEY OF JIILO BAY - ACCIDENT OF THE LAUNCH - OCCUPATION
OF THE OFFICERS LEFT IN THE VINCENNES - THEY ARE ENTERTAINED BY
KANUHA - KANUIIA AND FAMILY ENTERTAINED ON BOARD - SUGAR MANUFACTURE
 - COFFEE PLANTATIONS - CULTURE OF SUGAR AND COFFEE INTRODUCED BY MR.
GOODRICH - THEY ARE NEGLECTED AND DISCOURAGED BY HIS SUCCESSOR - MR.
COANS PAROCHIAL CHARGE - SCHOOLS AT HILO - WAILUKU FALLS - TACCA - INDIGO
 - SANDALWOOD - RETURN OF MR. BRACKENRIDGE - EXPEDITION OF MESSRS. BRINS
MADE AND DRAYTON - LAVA STREAM - PAHUHALI ROAD - GREAT FLOOD OF LAVA
DISTRICT OF WAIMEA - DISTRICT OF KOIIALA  - SCHOOL OF BLACKFISH - VISIT OF
MR DRAYTON TO KILAUEA - DR. PICKERING'S VISIT TO KILAUEA - COMPARISON OF
MAUNA KEA AND MAUNA LOA - GREAT SWELL OF THE SEA IN 1837 - EARTHQUAKES
 - CLOSE OF OUR OPERATIONS - DESCRIPTION OF THE BAY OF HILO - UNFOUNDED
COMPLAINTS AGAINST THE SAILORS

CHAPTER VII.   231  232  233  234  235  236  237  238  239  240  241  242  243  244  245  246  247  248  249  250  251  252  253  254  255  256  257  258  259  260
MESSRS. PICKERING, DRAYTON, AND BRACKENRIDGE SAIL FROM MAUI - DEPARTURE
OF THE VINCENNES FROM HILO - TIER ARRIVAL AT LAHAINA - DESCRIPTION OF
MAUI - VISIT TO THE KING - KING'S PALACE - TOWN OF LAHAINA - PRIVATE APART
MENTS OF THE KING - HIS WIFE - EXCURSION TO THE SEMINARY OF WAILUKU
WEST MAUI - BUILDINGS OF THE SEMINARY - HABITS AND DRESS OF THE SCHOLARS
 - COURTSHIP BY LETTER - MERITS AND DEFECTS OF THE SEMINARY - MR. RAlLY'S
RESIDENCE - SAND"HILLS - IOUND OF HUMAN BONES - RETURN TO LAHAINA  -  ONE
OF OUR BOATS LOST - ISLAND OF KAHOOLAWE - SEMINARY OF LAHAINALUNA
DISADVANTAGES OF ITS POSITION - ITS ORIGINAL SYSTEM - CHANGES IN THE
SYSTEM - ITS PROBABLE FAILURE -  APPEARANCE OF THE SCHOLARS -  IMPROVE
MENTS PROPOSED IN IT - SURVEY OF THE COASTS OF LAHAINA - ITS POPULATION
CHURCH - DISTRICT OF WAILUICU - DISTRICT OF KULA - KING'S ENCOURAGEMENT OF
THE CULTURE OF SUGAR -  PERSEVERANCE OF THE NATIVES - LABOURS OF THE
MISSIONARIES - POPULATION OF WAILUKU - TOUR OF MESSRS. PICKERING, DRAY
TON, AND BRACKENRIDGE  -  NORTH COAST OF MAUI  - MOUNT HALEAKALA  -  MR.
LANE AND MINOR'S PLANTATION - CAVE - CRATER OF HALEAKALA - WAILUKU
PASS - INFLUENCE OF BOOKS ON THE NATIVES - NATIVE CHARACTER - REGENT
KEKAULTJOHI_LIEUTENAN'f JIUDD DESPATCHED ON A SURVEY - WE TAKE LEAVE
OF MAUI  -  LANAI - ICHTIIYOLOGY_SIJRF AND TIDES - MOLOKAI - ARRIVAL OF THE
VINCENNES AT HONOLULU - RETURN OF THE PORPOISE

CHAPTER VIII. 261  262  263  264  265  266  267  268  269  270  271  272  273  274  275  276  277  278  279  280  281  282  283  284  285  286  287
PORPOISE SAILS PROM OAW -  MANUEL RODRIGUEZ  -  WALKER'S TSLAXD - MANHU -
ARATICA  -  SAKEM ISLAND  -  SEA - GULL G ROUP - ISLAND OF BARCLAY DE TOLLY  -
WOLCONSKY  -  DEATH OF A KANAKA  - TAWEREE  - MARGARET'S ISLAND  -  FOUR
CROWNS OF QUIROS - ARCHANGEL - ST. PABLO - INTERVIEW WITH TlIE NATIVES
RETURN TO ARATICA - RESULTS OF THE BORING - THEORY OF CORAL, ISLANDS - TIDAL
OBSERVATIONS - INHABITANTS OF ARATICA - CANOE SPOKEN - ARRIVAL AT
TAHITI  -  DOMESTIC QUARRELS OF THE QUEEN  -  MEETING OF THE DISTRICT
SCHOOLS  -  MEETING OF THE AUXILIARY SOCIETIES  -  DISTURBANCE OF THE
MEETING  -  POLICE OF PAPIETI  -  AMERICAN COMMERCE AT TAHITI  -  PORPOISE
LEAVES TAHITI  -  MEETS THE TRADES  -  FLINT'S ISLAND  -  STAVER'S ISLAND  -
PENRHYN'S ISLAND  -  ISLANDERS -  THEIR LANGUAGE  - THEIR TURBULENCE -  APPEARANCE
OF THE WOMEN - FEROCITY OF THE ISLANDERS - THEIR ARMS - THEIR
CANOES  - THEIR TALENT FOR HARANGUING  -  LIEUTENANT - COMMANDANT RINGGOLD
RESOLVES TO RETURN - CURRENTS AND WINDS - ARRIVAL ATHONOLULU - RESULTS
OF THE CRUISE - PORPOISE FOUND TO NEED REPAIR - EFFECTS OF THE
LAPLACE TREATY  -  PREPARATIONS FOB DEPARTURE  -  PRODUCTIONS OF THE
HAWAIIAN GROUP - ITS FLORA - CLIMATE AND DISEASES

CHAPTER IX.  288  289  290  291  292  293  294  295  296  297  298  299  300  301  302  303  304  305  306  307  308  309  310  311  312  313  314  315  316  317  318  319  320  321  322  323  324  325  326  327  328  329  330  331  332  333  334  335  336  337
PEPARTURE FROM OAHU - SICKNESS OP THE CREW OF THE PORPOISE - SEARCH FOR
UNKNOWN ISLANDS - CAPE DISAPPOINTMENT - BAR OF THE COLUMBIA RIVER -
DETERMINATION TO PROCEED TO THE NORTHWARD - DANGER OF THE VESSELS NEAR
CAPE GRENVILLE -  WRECK OF A JAPANESE JUNK - INDIAN CANOE - STRAITS OF
JUAN DT5 FUCA - INDIANS VISIT THE SHIP - THEIR APPEARANCE - MODE OF TAKING
WILD - FOWL -  PROTECTION ISLAND - PORT DISCOVERY - INDIANS - THEIR MANNERS,
ETC. - THEIR CANOES - THEIR WARS - GENERAL ORDER - WOODS AROUND PORT DlSCOVERY -
INDIAN MESSENGER  - INDIAN BURIAL - PLACES - DEPARTURE FROM PORT
DISCOVERY - PORT TOWNSEND - PORT LAWRENCE - APPLETREE COVE - ADMIRALTY
INLET - PUBET BOUND - ANCHORAGE AT NISQUALLY - VISIT FROM MR. ANDERSON
AND CAPTAIN M'NIEL - SCENERY AT NISQUALLY - PLAN OF OUR OPERATIONS - VISIT
TO FORT NISQUALLY - MISSION - PUGET SOUND COMPANY - MOUNT RAINIER - PRESENT
OF BULLOCKS FROM MR. ANDERSON  -  STEAMER BEAVER  -  LIEUTEUANT
JOHNSON - S PARTY SET OUT - DEPARTURE OF CAPTAIN WILKES'S PARTY  - RIVER
NISQUALLY  -  CAMP AT SHUTE - S RIVER  -  BUTE PRAIRIE  -  CHICKEELES RIVER  -
COWLITZ FARM -  MR. FORREST'S HOSPITALITY - CLIMATE OF COWLITZ - SIMON
PLUMONDON  -  NATIVE MODE OF DRESSING LEATHER  -  EMBARKATION ON THE
COWLITZ RIVER - ITS SHORES - SUPPOSED BEDS OF COAL - ENTRANCE INTO THE
COLUMBIA RIVER - MOUNT COFFIN - OAK POINT - ST. BELEN'S REACH - TONGUE
POINT -  ASTORIA - EXCURSION TO POINT ADAMS - MISSIONARIES AT CLATSOP
CLATSOP VILLAGE - PUNISHMENT OF A MURDERER - VOYAGE TO VANCOUVER - TONGUE
POINT - INDIAN MEDICINE - MAN - COFFIN ROCK - INDIAN MOURNINGWARRIOR
POINT - CALLAPUYA - VILLAGE OF VANCOUVER - FORT VANCOUVER - DR.
M'LAUGHLIN - COMPANYS ESTABLISHMENT  - BUSINESS TRANSACTED AT VANCOUVER -
CONDITION OF THE COMPANY'S SERVANTS AND DEPENDANTS - HOSPITABLE
RECEPTION OF THE MISSIONARIES -  HALF - BREED CHILDREN -  MORALS - CROPS - FARM -
DAIRY FARM - OLD FORT VANCOUVER - GRIST AND SAW MILLS - MANUFACTURE
OF AXES - SUDDEN RISE OF THE RIVER - PARTY OF YOUNG AMERICANS.

CHAPTER X.  338  339  340  341  342  343  344  345  346  347  348  349  350  351  352  353  354  355  356  357  358  359  360  361  362  363  364  365  366  367  368  369  370  371  372  373  374
DEPARTURE FROM VANCOUVER - BANKS OF THE WILLAMETTE - BOAT BUILDERS - OAK
ISLANDS - FALLS OF THE WILLAMETTE - MISSIONARIES - SALMON FISHERY -
INDIAN VILLAGE - FLOODS OF THE RIVER - CHAMPOOING - MR. JOHNSON AND OTHER
SETTLERS - THEIR DESIRE FOR LAWS - MICHEL LA FRAMBOISE - MR. BACHELET
METHODIST MISSION - DR. BABCOCK - LANDS OF THE MISSION - CONFERENCE IN
RELATION TO LAWS - VISIT THE "MILL" - PLANS OF THE MISSIONARIES - MR.
HINESS SELECTION OF LAND - EXTENT OF THE MISSIONARY FIELD - CROSSING OF
THE WILLAMETTE - O'NEILL'S FARM - YAM HILLS - GAY'S RESIDENCE AND CHARACTER
 - FARM OF A SON OF DR. M'LAUGHLIN  -  FLOODS  -  YOUNG'S FARM  - CATTLE
IMPORTED FROM CALIFORNIA  - BONES OF THE MASTODON - RETURN TO
CHAMPOOING - VISIT FROM THE SETTLERS - ROCKY RIDGE - DR. BAILEY'S FARM - MRS.
BAILEY - INDIAN TREATMENT OF THE SICK - WALKER'S FARM - BOAT - BUILDERS'
CAMP - RETURN TO VANCOUVER - MR. OGDEN AND HIS VOYAGEURS - NORTHERN
POSTS OF THE COMPANY - ADVANTAGES OF THE TERRITORY FOR GRAZING - PRICE
OF CATTLE - VALUE OF LABOUR - ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES OF THE
WILLAMETTE COUNTRY - HABITS AND SPECIES OF THE SALMON - DWELLINGS OF
THE INDIANS - THEIR GAMES OF CHANCE - KLACKAMUS VILLAGE - THEIR MODE OF
BURIAL - THEIR MEDICINE - MEN - INDIAN PREJUDICES - THEY CAUSE THE MURDER
OF MR. BLACK - MR. OGDEN OFFERS A CONVEYANCE TO COWLITZ - CHIEF OF AN
EXTINCT TRIBE - REASONS FOR THE DECAY OF THE INDIAN POPULATION -
DEPARTURE FROM VANCOUVER - EMBARKATION ON THE COLUMBIA - ENTRANCE INTO
THE COWLITZ - ARRIVAL AT COWLITZ FARM - MR. FORREST AND THE CHRONOMETER - CHICKEELES RIVER AND INDIANS - RETURN TO NISQUALLY.

CHAPTER XI.  375  376  377  378  379  380  381  382  383  384  385  386  387  388  389  390  391  392  393  394  395  396  397  398  399  400  401  402  403  404  405
SCIENTIFIC OPERATIONS AT NISQUALLY  - FACILITIES TENDERED BY MR. OGDEN
 - MR. DRAYTON ORDERED TO ACCOMPANY HIM - MR. DRAYTON'S PREVIOUS
RESEARCHES - PREPARATIONS FOR THE EXPEDITION - BOATS - PACKAGES AND MODE
OF TRANSPORTATION - TRADE AT MR. OGDEN'S POSTS - DEPARTURE OF MR. DRAY.
TON FROM VANCOUVER  -  CASCADES - CASCADE MOUNTAINS - PORTAGES - GUMMING
THE BOATS - SUNKEN FOREST -  RATTLESNAKES  -  METHODIST MISSION - INDIANS
WITHIN ITS SPHERE - THE DALLES - MODE OF CURING FISH THERE - MODE OF FISH
ING - DESCRIPTION OF THE DALLES - SYSTEM OF THE HUDSON BAY COMPANY
PORTAGE AT THE DALLES - MISSIONARY EFFORTS - IMPROVIDENCE OF THE IN
DIANS - DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY - ITS CLIMATE - WISHAM - CHUTES RIVER
JOHN DAY'S RIVER - END OF THE WOODS - HIEROGLYPHIC ROCKS - BURIAL - PLACE
GRAND RAPIDS - WINDMILL ROCK - ARRIVAL OF MR. DRAYTON AT WALLAWALLA
CHARACTER AND CONDITION OF THE COMPANY'S SERVANTS - SEPARATION FROM
MR. OGDEN - VISIT TO DR. WHITMAN - MISSIONARY STATIONS OF THE AMERICAN
BOARD  -  WATILAPTU  - GRANDE RONDE  -  FLAG OF PEACE - CONDITION OF THE
MISSIONARIES - CLIMATE - TREES -  - PROSPECTS OF THE MISSION - THEIR SCHOOL
INDIAN FARMING - BLUE MOUNTAINS - HOT WINDS - MODE OF FISHING AT WALLA
WALLA  -  ARRIVAL OF INDIANS - FALL OF THE COLUMBIA  -  WALLAWALLA AND
NEZ PERCE TRIBES - THEIR MODE OF DRESSING SKINS - MODE OF CARRYING THEIR
CHILDREN -  MEDICINE WOMAN  - CUSTOMS IN RELATION TO FEMALES - GREAT
FALLS OF THE COLUMBIA - COMPARISON OF THE COLUMBIA AND SNAKE RIVERS
MR DRAYTON LEAVES WALLAWALLA - INDIANS AT PRAYER - EXTORTION BY THE
INDIANS - THEIR ATTEMPTS AT THEFT - RETURN OF MR. DRAYTON TO VANCOUVER.

CHAPTER XII.  406  407  408  409  410  411  412  413  414  415  416  417  418  419  420  421  422  423  424  425  426  427  428  429  430  431  432  433  434  435  436  437  438  439  440
BAKERY AT NISQIJALLY - PROGRESS OF THE SURVEYS - LOSS OF AN EVE - PIECE - FRUITLESS
SEARCH FOR IT - SURVEY OF HOOD'S CANAL - CELEBRATION OF FOURTH
OF JULY - VISIT FROM DR N'LAUGHLIN - MOUNT RAINIER AND OTHER SNOWY
MOUNTAINS - EXPEDITION TO THE BUTE PRAIRIES - FARM OF THE COMPANY AT
NISQUALLY  -  SURVEY OF PLGET SOUND - RETURN OF LIEUTENANT JOHNSON'S
PARTY - DISADVANTAGES OF THE POST AT NISQUALLY - NISQUALLY INDIANS - LIEUTENANT
JOHNSON'S OPERATIONS - EQUIPMENT OF HIS PARTY - HIS GUIDE - HIS
FIRST CAMP - HIS SECOND CAMP - PUYALLUP RIVER - DIFFICULT PATHS - LARGE
ARBOR VITiE TREES - SMALOCFIO RIVER - LOSS OF CAMP EQUIPAGE - GREAT SIZE OF
THE SPRUCE TREES - LA TETE MOUNTAIN - LITTLE PRAIRIE - CAMP AT THE EDGE
OF THE SNOW - DISTANT VIEW OF MOUNT RAINIER - SUMMIT OF THE RIDGE - ACCIDENT
TO THE CHRONOMETER -  INDIANS DISMISSED  - SMALOCHO RIVER - FIRE IN
THE WOODS - YAKIMA TRIBE - INTERVIEW WITH ITS CHIEF - HE EXCHANGES HORSES
 - ANOTHER VIEW OF MOUNT RAINIER - SPOKANE INDIANS - YAKIMA RIVER - VERY
ELEVATED GROUNDS - DESCENT TOWARDS THE COLUMBIA - COLUMBIA RIVER -
PISCHOUS RIVER - INDIAN CULTIVATION - VIEW OF THE COLUMBIA - POINT DE BOIS -
OKONAGAN INDIANS - HIGH PRAIRIE - MOUNT ST. PIERRE - FORT OKONAGAN - FORT
THOMPSON - ARRIVAL OF MR. MAXWELL - FOOD OF THE INDIANS, AND OF THE
COMPANY'S SERVANTS - AMUSEMENT OF THE INDIANS - DEPARTURE FROM FORT
OKONAGAN - LIEUTENANT JOHNSON LOSES HIS WAY - GRASSY PRAIRIE - GRANDE
COULEE -  ARTIFICIAL HORIZON BROKEN  - LIEUTENANT JOHNSON LEAVES THE
PARTY - THE PARTY ARRIVES AT FORT COLVILLE - LIEUTENANT JOHNSON'S RIDE
UP THE SPOKANE - MISSIONARY STATION OF CHIMIKAINE - CORNELIUS, CHIEF OF
THE SPOKANE TRIBE - SINGULAR PROPHECY - LIEUTENANT JOHNSON'S ARRIVAL AT
FORT COLVILLE

CHAPTER XIII.  441  442  443  444  445  446  447  448  449  450  451  452  453  454  455  456  457  458  459  460  461  462  463  464  465  466  467  468  469  470  471  472  473  474
CONTINUATION OF LIEUTENANT JOHNSON'S TOUR - FORT COLVELLE - KETTLE FALLS
 - QUIARLPI -  INDIANS - HEIGHT OF FORT COLVILLE ABOVE THE SEA - ITS CLIMATE
ITS AGRICULTURE - SPOKANE INDIANS - THEIR MODE OF LIFE - THEIR PHYSICAL
CHARACTER - THEIR DRESS - THEIR GOVERNMENT AND DOMESTIC RELATIONS
AUTHORITY OF THEIR CHIEFS - THEIR PUNISHMENTS - THEIR SUPERSTITIONS
THEIR CALENDAR - OPERATIONS OF THE HUDSON BAY COMPANY IN THE NORTH
OUTPOSTS OF COLVILLE - FORT CHILCOTIN - FORT GEORGE - FORT THOMPSON - FORT
ST. JAMES - NORTHERN INDIANS -  TAKALI AND ATNARS - THEIR DRESS - THEIR
HABITATIONS - THEIR FOOD - THEIR MODE OF FISHING - THEIR FUNERAL RITES
THEIR MEDICINE - MEN - FRASEWS RIVER - LIEUTENANT JOHNSON'S PARTY LEAVES
FORT COLVILLE  -  MISSIONARY STATION AT CHIMIKAINE  -  CHARACTER OF THE
NEIGHBOURING INDIANS - THEIR TREATMENT OF FEMALES - THEIR BURIALS - THEIR
MARRIAGES - DEPARTURE FROM THE MISSION - ADVENTURE AT A CAMP OF SPO
KANE INDIANS - INDIANS TRAVELLING - KOOSKOOSKEE INDIANS - MISSION AT LAP
WAI - MR. SPALDING - HIS EXERTIONS TO CIVILIZE THE INDIANS - FREQUENT VISITS
OF THE OREGON INDIANS TO THE UNITED STATES - DEPARTURE FROM LAPWAI
 - INDIAN FARMS - HALF - BREEDS - MIGRATION OF THE BUFFALO - SNAKE RIVER
SANDY DESERT - COEUR D'ALENE - NEZ PERCE INDIANS - INDIANS AROUND LAPWAI
 - SAW - MILL - DECREASE OF WILD ANIMALS - MR. HALE'S TOUR, AND REMARKS
FALLS OF THE PELUSE  -  LEGEND RELATING TO TIIEM - WALLAWALLA  -  LAN
GUAGES OF INDIANS - YAKIMA RIVER - MISERABLE GROUP OF SQUAWS - SLOW COM
MIJNICATION OF NEWS IN OREGON - NUMEROUS RATTLESNAKES -  SI'IPEN RIVER
TIDIAS'S CAMP - PRAIRIES - LITTLE PRAIRIE - SMALOCIJO RIVER - RETURN TO NIS.
QUALLY  -  EASTERN INDIANS OF OREGON  - BLACKFEET  -  SUOSHONES  -  CROWS
JIONACKS - YOUTAS - I'RIBES ALLIED TO THE BONACKS - AlONKEY INDIANS - APACHES
 - PRESSURE OF THE TRIBES TOWARDS THE SOUTH - ITS PROBABLE CAUSES

CHAPTER XIV.  475  476  477  478  479  480  481  482  483  484  485  486  487  488  489  490  491  492  493  494  495
RETURN FROM THE SURVEYS - NEW LAND EXPEDITION FITTED OUT - LEAVE - TAKING
 - DEPARTURE FROM NlSQUALLY -  ANXIETY RESPECTING THE PEACOCK - PRAISE.
WORTHY SPIRIT OF THE OFFICERS AND CREW - VASHON'S ISLAND - NEW DUNGENESS
 -  THE PORPOISE JOINS THE VINCENNES  -  OPERATIONS OF THE PORPOISE  -  COM
MENCEMENT BAY  - PORT ORCHARD - PORT MADISON - CATHOLIC MISSION - METEOR
 - PENN'S COVE - GOOD EFFECTS OF THE MISSIONARY EFFORTS - FORTIFICATIONS
OF THE INDIANS  -  MINERAL SPRING  -  PORT GARDNER  -  SACHET INDIANS -  THEIR
DRESS - THEIR DISEASES - DECEPTION PASSAGE - PASSAGE INTO BELLINGIIAM BAY
 -  INDIAN TRIBES  -  FRASER'S RIVER  -  PLANS OF FURTHER OPERATIONS -  BOAT
EXPEDITION ACROSS THE STRAITS - NEWS OF THE LOSS OF THE PEACOCK - CHANGE
OF PLANS - MESSAGE SENT TO ASTORIA - VINCENNES AND PORPOISE SAIL FROM
NEW DUNGENESS - PORT SCARBOROUGH - CLASSET INDIANS - THEIR MODE OF TAKING
WHALES - DEPARTURE FROM THE STRAITS OF DE FUCA - DE FUCA'S PILLAR - POR
POISE PARTS COMPANY  - SOUNDINGS ON THE COAST - CAPE DISAPPOINTMENT
SHIP OROZIMBO - MEETING WITH CAPTAIN HUDSON - SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR THE
COLUMBIA RIVER - DETAILS OF THE PEACOCK'S DISASTER - WANT OF GOOD PILOTS
 - PERILOUS POSITION OF THE PEACOCK'S BOATS - ALL THE OFFICERS AND CREW
SAFELY LANDED - THEIR KIND RECEPTION BY THE OFFICERS OF THE HUDSON BAY
COMPANY AND THE MISSIONARIES - NEW DISPOSITION OF THE SQUADRON - PORPOISE
ENTERS THE COLUMBIA RIVER - VINCENNES SAILS FOR SAN FRANCISCO

APPENDIX.  496  497  498  499  500  501  502  503  504  505  506  507  508  509  510  511  512  513  514  515  516  517  518  519  520  521  522  523  524  525  526  527  528  529  530  531  532  533  534  535  536  537  538  539
I. LAPLACE'S MANIFESTO . 501
II. MR. BRINSMADE'S LETTER AND THE KINGS ANSWER 503
III. CEREMONIES ON THE FOUNDING OF HEIAUS 506
IV. MEMORIAL FROM THE CREW RELATIVE TO SWEENY 508
V. COPY OF MARINE ENLISTMENT AND ORDERS RELATIVE TO COURT - MARTIAL. 509
VI. ORDERS TO SCIENTIFIC CORPS 512
VII. ORDERS TO PORPOISE 515
VIII. ORDERS TO PEACOCK 517
IX. PAPERS RELATIVE TO ADAMS, PILOT 520
X. LIEUTENANT JOHNSON'S ORDERS
XI. ORDERS TO LIEUTENANT - COMMANDANT RINGGOLD AND LIEUTENANT CASE. .522
XII. ORDERS FOR LAND EXPEDITION 528
XIII. METEOROLOGICAL REGISTER AT LAPWAI 531
XIV. ORDERS ADDRESSED TO LIEUTENANT K. E. JOHNSON, BUT AFTERWARDS
    TRANSFERRED TO PASSED MIDSHIPMAN ELD 534
XV. CONTRACT WHICH THE SERVANTS OF THE HUDSON DAY COMPANY ENTER INTO 536





PLATES


Click for plate at 100 ppi

Kamehameha
King of the Hawaiian Islands
(page 2)
400 ppi plate

Hanapepe Valley
(page 50)
400 ppi plate

Grove of  Kauai
(page 68)
400 ppi plate

Temple of Kaili
Island of Hawaii
(page 100)
400 ppi plate

Map of Part of the Island of Hawaii
(page 108)
400 ppi plate

Crater of Moku-A-Weo-Weo
on the top of Mouna-Loa, Hawaii
(page 110)
400 ppi plate

View of Crater Kilauea
(page 124)
400 ppi plate

Camp of Pendulum Peak
(page 144)
400 ppi plate

Crater of Moku-A-Weo-Weo
(page 158)
400 ppi plate

Crater of Kilauea, Hawaii
(page 164)
400 ppi plate

Walls of Crater, Kilauea
(page 170)
400 ppi plate

Kekauluohi
(page 234)
400 ppi plate

Crater of East Maui,
called by the natives,
Haleakala
(page 254)
400 ppi plate

Map of the Oregon Territory
(page 289)
400 ppi plate

Concomely's Tomb, Astoria
(page 320)
400 ppi plate

Chinook Lodge
(page 340)
400 ppi plate

Wreck of the Peacock
(page 492)
400 ppi plate