TRAVELS

IN


NORTH AMERICA

IN THE YEARS 1841-2;

WITH

GEOLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS

ON


THE UNITED STATES,

CANADA AND NOVA SCOTIA.

============

BY CHARLES LYELL, ESQ. F.R.S.

AUTHOR OF THE PRINCIPLES OF GEOLOGY.

============


IN TWO VOLUMES.

VOLUME I

NEW YORK:

Wiley and Putnam.

1845.


This electronic edition prepared by Dr. David C. Bossard
from original documents in the library holdings of Dartmouth College.

July, 2006.

Copyright © 2006 by David C. Bossard.


CONTENTS OF VOLUME I.

DEDICATION   viii

PREFACE  ix  x

CHAPTER I.

 001  002  003  004  005  006  007  008  009  010  011  012  013  014  015  016  017  018  019  020  021

Voyage. -- Harbour of Halifax. -- Excursions near Boston. -- Difference of Plants from European Species, and Correspondence of Marine Shells. -- Resemblance of Drift, Erratics, and Furrowed Rocks, to those of Sweden. -- Springfield.New Haven. -- Scenery of the Hudson. -- Albany. -- Geological Surveys. -- Mohawk Valley. -- Ancient or Silurian Formations. -- Prosperity and rapid Progress of the People. -- Lake Ontario. -- Tortoises. -- Fossil Remains of Mastodon.

[013] [Regarding the geological survey of New York] "...several of the geological surveyors,... reported, among other results, their opinion, that no coal would ever be discovered in their respective districts. This announcement caused no small disappointment, especially as the neighbouring state of Pennsylvania was very rich in coal."

[015] [On travelling across the state of New York] "I became convinced that we must turn to the New World if we wish to see in perfection the oldest monuments of the earth's history, so far at least as relates to its earliest inhabitants. Certainly in no other country are these ancient strata developed on a grander scale, or more plentifully charged with fossils; and, as they are nearly horizontal, the order of their relative position is always clear and unequivocal. They exhibit, moreover, in their range from the Hudson River to the Niagara, some fine examples of the gradual manner in which certain sets of strata thin out when followed for hundreds of miles, while others previously wanting become intercalated in the series."

[017] [On a visit through Rochester, New York] "When we reflect that some single towns, of which the foundations were laid by persons still living, can already number a population, equal to all the aboriginal hunter tribes who possessed the forests for hundreds of miles around, we soon cease to repine at the extraordinary revolution, however much we may commiserate the unhappy fate of the disinherited race."

CHAPTER II.

 022  023  024  025  026  027  028  029  030  031  032  033  034  035  036  037  038  039  040  041  042  043

Distant and near View of the Falls of Niagara. -- Whether the Falls have receded from Queenston to their present Site. -- Geographical Features of the Region. -- Course of the River above and below the Falls. -- Recent Proofs of Erosion. -- Historical Data in the Works of Hennepin and Kalm. -- Geological Evidence derived from Fluviatile Strata or Remnants of an old River-bed in Goat-Island and elsewhere. -- Difficulty of computing the Rate of the Retrograde Movement. -- Varying Hardness and Thickness of the Rocks undermined. -- Future Recession. -- Age of the Drift and Limestone Escarpments. -- Successive changes which preceded and accompanied the origin of the Falls. -- Reflections on the Lapse of past Time.

[042] [Regarding the gradual erosion of the Niagara Falls] "If such events can take place while the zoology of the earth remains almost stationary and unaltered, what ages may not be comprehended in those successive tertiary periods during which the Flora and Fauna of the globe have been almost entirely changed! Yet how subordinate a place in the long calendar of geological chronology do the successive tertiary periods themselves occupy! How much more enormous a duration must we assign to many antecedent revolutions of the earth and its inhabitants!"


CHAPTER III.

 044  045  046  047  048  049  050  051  052  053  054  055  056  057  058  059  060  061

Tour from the Niagara to the Northern Frontier of Pennsylvania. -- Ancient Gypsiferous Formation of New York. -- Fossil Mastodon at Geneseo. -- Scenery. -- -Sudclen Growth of New Towns. -- Coal of Blossberg, and resemblance to British Coal-Measures. -- Stigmaria. -- Humming Birds. -- Nomenclature of Places. -- Helderberg Mountains and Fossils. -- Refractory Tenants. -- Travelling in the States. -- Politeness of Women. -- Canal Boat. -- Domestic Service. -- Progress of Civilisation. -- Philadelphia. -- Fire-engines.


CHAPTER IV.

 062  063  064  065  066  067  068  069  070  071  072  073  074  075  076  077  078  079  080

Excursion to New Jersey. -- Cretaceous Rocks compared to European. -- General Analogy of Fossils, and Distinctness of Species. -- Tour to the Anthracite Region of the Alleghanies in Pennsylvania. -- Long parallel Ridges and Valleys of these Mountains. -- Pottsville. -- Absence of Smoke. -- Fossil Plants same as in Bituminous Coal. -- Stigmari. -- Great Thickness of Strata. -- Origin of Anthracite. -- Vast Area of the Appalachian Coal-Field. -- Progressive Debituminization of coal from West to East. -- General Remarks on the different Groups of Rocks between the Atlantic and the Mississippi. -- Law of Structure of the Appalachian chain discovered by the Professors Rogers. -- Increased Folding and Dislocation of Strata on the South-eastern flank of the Appalachians. -- Theory of the Origin of this Mountain chain.


CHAPTER V.

 081  082  083  084  085  086  087  088  089  090  091  092  093  094  095  096  097  098

Wooded Ridges of the Alleghany Mountains. -- German Patois in Pennsylvania. -- Lehigh Summit Mine. -- Effects of lee during a Flood in the Delaware. -- Election of a Governor at Trenton and at Philadelphia. -- Journey to Boston. -- Autumnal Tints of the Foliage. -- Boston the Seat of Commerce, of Government, and of a University. -- Lectures at the Lowell Institute. -- Influence of Oral Instruction in Literature and Science. -- Fees of Public Lecturers. -- Education Funds sunk in costly Buildings. -- Advantages of anti-building clauses. -- Blind Asylum. -- Lowefl Factory. -- National Schools. -- Equality of Sects. -- Society in Boston.


CHAPTER VI.

 099  100  101  102  103  104  105  106  107  108  109  110  111

Fall of Snow and Sleigh-driving at Boston. -- Journey to New Haven. -- Ichthyolites of Durham, Connecticut. -- Age of Red Sandstone. -- Income of Farmers. -- Baltimore. -- Washington. -- National Museum. -- Natural Impediments to the Growth of Washington. -- Why chosen for the Capital. -- Richmond, Virginia. -- Eflècts of Slave Labour. -- Low Region on the Atlantic Border, occupied by Tertiary Strata. -- Infusorial Bed at Richmond. -- Miocene Shells and Corals in the Cliffs of the James River compared with Fossils of the European Crag and Faluns. -- Analogy of Forms and Difference of Species. -- Proportion of Species. -- Commencement of the present Geographical Distribution of Mollusca


CHAPTER VII.

 112  113  114  115  116  117  118  119  120  121

Pine Barrens of Virginia and North Carolina. -- Railway Train stopped by Snow and Ice. -- The great Dismal Swamp. -- Soil formed entirely of Vegetable Matter. -- Rises higher than the contiguous firm Land. -- Buried Timber. -- Lake in the Middle. -- The Origin of Coal illustrated by the Great Dismal. -- Objections to the Theory of an ancient Atmosphere highly charged with Carbonic Acid.

CHAPTER VIII.

 122  123  124  125  126  127  128  129  130  131  132  133  134  135

Tour to Charleston, South Carolina. -- Facilities of Locomotion. -- Augusta. -- Voyage down the Savannah River. -- Shell Bluff. -- Slave Labour. -- Fever and Ague. -- Pine Forests of Georgia. -- AIligators and Land Tortoises. -- Warmth of Climate in January. -- Tertiary Strata on the Savannah. -- Fossil Remains of Mastodon and Mylodon near Savannah. -- Passports required of Slaves. -- Cheerfulness of the Negroes.

CHAPTER IX.

  136  137  138  139  140  141  142  143  144  145  146  147  148  149  150  151  152  153  154  155

Return to Charleston. -- Fossil Human Skeleton. -- Geographical Distribution of Quadrupeds in North America. -- Severe Frost in 1835 in South Carolina. -- White Limestone of the Cooper River and Santee Canal. -- Referred to the Eocene Period, not intermediate between Tertiary and Chalk. -- Lime-sinks. -- Species of Shells common to Eocene Strata in America and Europe. -- Causes of the increased Insalubrity of the Low Region of South Carolina. -- Condition of the Slave Population. -- Cheerfulness of the Negroes, their Vanity. -- State of Animal Existence. -- Jnvalidity of Marriages. -- The coloured Population multiply, faster than the Whites. -- Effect of the Interference of Abolitionists. -- Law against Education. -- Gradual Emancipation equally desirable for theWhites and the Coloured Race.

[149] [Remarking on the anti-slavery movement] "The more I reflected on the condition of the slaves, and endeavoured to think on a practicable plan for hastening the period of their liberation, the more difficult the subject appeared to me, and the more I felt astonished at the confidence displayed by so many anti-slavery speakers and writers on both sides of the Atlantic. The course pursued by these agitators shows that, next to the positively wicked, the class who are usually called 'well-meaning persons' are the most mischievous in society."

[151] "Had the measure of emancipating all the slaves been carried through as rapidly as some abolitionists have desired, the fate of the negroes might have been almost as deplorable as that of the aboriginal Indians.

... I am by no means disposed to assume that the natural capacities of the negroes, who always appeared to me to be an amiable, gentle, and inoffensive race, may not be equal in a moral and intellectual point of view to those of the Europeans, provided the coloured population were placed in circumstances equally favourable for their development. But it would be visionary to expect that, under any imaginable system, this race could at once acquire as much energy, and become as rapidly progressive, as the Anglo-Saxons. To inspire them with such an aptitude for rapid advancement must be the work of time -- the result of improvements carried on through several successive generations. Time is precisely the condition for which the advocates of the immediate liberation of the blacks would never sufficiently allow."

CHAPTER X.


 156  157  158  159  160  161  162  163  164  165  166  167  168  169  170

Wilmington, North Carolina. -- Mount Vernon. -- Return to Philadelphia. -- Reception of Mr. Dickens. -- Museum and Fossil Human Bones. -- Penitentiary. -- Churches. -- Religious Excitement. -- Coloured People of Fortune. -- Obstacles to their obtaining Political and Social Equality. -- No natural Antipathy between the Races. -- Negro Reservations.

[164] [Regarding a wealthy black man in Philadelphia] "I was rejoicing that his colour had proved no impediment to his rising in the world, and that he had been allowed so much fair play as to succeed in over-topping the majority of his white competitors, when I learnt, on further inquiry, that, after giving an excellent education to his children, he had been made unhappy, by finding they must continue, in spite of all their advantages, to belong to an inferior caste. ...

"In many states, the free blacks have votes, and exert their privileges at elections, yet there is not an instance of a single man of colour, although eligible by law, having been chosen a member of any state legislature. ... no well educated black has ever yet had an opportunity of ripening or displaying superior talents in this or any other civilised country. Canada and Ireland teach us how much time and how many generations are required for the blending together, on terms of perfect equality, both social and political, of two nations, the conquererors and the conquered, even where both are of the same race... but when, in the same community we have two races so distinct in their physical peculiarities as to cause many naturalists, who have no desire to disparage the negro, to doubt whether both are of the same species, and starting originally from the same stock; when one of these, found in Africa in a savage and unprogressive state, has been degraded, by those who first colonized North America, to the lowest place in the social scale -- to expect, under such a combination of depressing circumstances, that, in half a century, and in a country where more than six-sevenths of the race are still held in bondage, the newly-emancipated citizens should, under any form of government attain at once a position of real equality, is a dream of the visionary philanthropist, whose impracticable schemes are more likely to injure than to forward a great cause."

[167] "If there be any place where distinctions of birth, wealth, station, and race should be forgotten, it is the temple where the Christian precept is inculcated that all men are equal before God."

CHAPTER XI.


 171  172  173  174  175  176  177  178  179  180  181  182  183  184  185  186  187  188

Philadelphia. -- Financial Crisis. -- Payment of State Dividends suspended. -- General Distress and Private Losses of the Americans. -- Debt of Pennsylvania. -- Public Works. -- Direct Taxes.Deficient Revenue. -- Bad Faith and Confiscations. -- Irresponsible Executive. -- Loan Refused by European Capitalists in 1812. -- Good Faith of Congress during the War in 1812-14. -- Effects of Universal Suffrage. -- Fraudulent Voting. -- Aliens. -- Solvency and Good Faith of the Majority of the States. -- Confidence of American Capitalists. -- Reform of the Electoral Body. -- General Progress of Society, and Prospects of the Republic.

CHAPTER XII.

 189  190  191  192  193  194  195  196  197  198  199  200  201  202  203  204  205  206  207

New York City. -- Geology. -- Distribution of Erratic Rocks in Long Island. -- Residence in New York. -- Effects on Society of increased Intercourse of distant States. -- Separation of the Capital and Metropolis. -- Climate. -- Geology of the Taconic Mountains. -- Stratum of Plumbago and Anthracite in the Mica Schist of Worcester. -- Theory of its Origin. -- Lectures for the Working Classes. -- Fossil Foot-Prints of Birds in Red Sandstone. -- Mount Holyoke. -- Visit to the Island of Martha's Vineyard. -- Fossil Walrus. -- Indias.


CHAPTER XIII.

 208  209  210  211  212  213  214  215  216  217  218  219  220  221  222  223  224  225  226  227  228  229  230  231  232  233  234  235  236  237  238  239  240  241  242  243  244  245  246  247  248  249  250  251

Meeting of Association of American Geologists at Boston. -- Popular Libraries in New England. -- Large Sale of Literary Works in the United States. -- American Universities. -- Harvard College, near Boston. -- English Universities. -- Peculiarities of their System. -- Historical Sketch of the Causes of the Peculiarities not of Medieval Origin. -- Collegiate Corporations. -- Their altered Relations to the English Universities after the Reformation. -- Constitution given to Oxford by Leicester and Laud. -- System of Public Teaching, how superseded by the Collegiate. -- Effects of the Change.. Oxford Examination Statute of 1800.Its subsequent Modification and Results. -- Rise of Private Tutors at Oxford and Cambridge. -- Consequences of this Innovation. -- Struggle at Oxford in 1839 to restore the Professional System. -- Causes of its Rejection. -- Tractarianism. -- Supremacy of Ecclesiastics. -- Youthful Examiners. -- Cambridge, advocacy of the System followed there. -- Influence of the English Academical Plan on the Cultivation of the Physical Sciences, and all Branches of Progressive Knowledge. -- Remedies and Reforms.

[237] [On the state of education at Oxford and Cambridge] "After the year 1839, we may consider three-fourths of the sciences, still nominally taught at Oxford, to have been virtually exiled from the University. The class rooms of the profefssors were some of them entirely, others nearly, deserted. -- Chemistry and botany attracted, between the years 1840 and 1844, from three to seven students; geometry, astronoy, and experimental philosophy, scarcely more; mineralogy and geology, still taught by the same professor who, fifteen years before, had attracted crowded audiences, from ten to twelve.... "

[240] [Continuing] "At Cambridge, all branches of knowledge taught by the professors ... have had sentence of banishment passed upon them in the form of new compulsory examinations... The professors of chemistry and anatomy, who had formerly considerable classes, have only mustered six or seven pupils ... The chairs of Modern History ... once numbering audiences of several hundreds, have been in like manner deserted."