Library of 19th Century Science:
The Golden Age of Geology

HMS Challenger


NARRATIVE

of the

UNITED STATES

EXPLORING EXPEDITION

DURING THE YEARS

1838, 1839, 1840, 1841, 1842.

by


CHARLES WILKES, U.S.N.
COMMANDER OF THE EXPEDITION
MEMBER OF THE AMERICAN PHILOSOPHICAL SOCIETY, ETC.

In Five Volumes

Volume I.

Philadephia
Lea and Blenchard

1845

This electronic edition prepared by Dr. David C. Bossard
from the original documents in the holdings of Dartmouth College.

July, 2008

Copyright © 2006 by Dr. David C. Bossard.  All rights reserved.

CONTENTS.

Titlepage   i

CONTENTS,  v  vi  vii  viii  ix  x  xi  xii

INTRODUCTION.   xiii  xiv  xv  xvi  xvii  xviii  xix  xx  xxi  xxii  xxiii  xxiv


INSTRUCTIONS. xxv  xxvi  xxvii  xxviii  xxix  xxx  xxxi  xxxii


LIST OF OFFICERS AND MEN. xxxiii  xxxiv  xxxv  xxxvi  xxxvii  xxxviii  xxxix  xl  xli  xlii  xliii  xliv  xlv  xlvi  xlvii  xlviii  xlvix  l  li  lii  liii  liv  lv  lvi


CHAPTER I.   001  002  003  004  005  006  007  008  009  010  011  012  013  014  015  016  017  018  019  020  021  022  023  024
DEPARTURE FROM THE' UNITED STATES   -   VOYAGE TO MADEIRA   -   ARRIVAL AT
FUNCHAL  -   APPEARANCE OF MADEIRA FROM THE SEA   -  LANDING AT FUNCTIAL
VISIT TO THE CIVIL AND MILITARY GOVERNORS   -   STREETS AND MODE OF TRANS
PORTATION  -  CRIMINALS AND PRISONS  -  VILLA OF CARVALHAL   -  CONVENT
RIDES IN MADEIRA  -  CEJRRAL  -  VISIT OF SCIENTIFIC GENTLEMEN TO SAN VIN
CENTE  -   EXCURSION TOWARDS THE EAST END OF THE ISLAND  -  STORY OF ITS
DISCOVERY   -  POPULATION OF MADEIRA   -  WINE  -   GOVERNMENT  -   CHARACTER OF
THE INHABITANTS  -  DRESS  -  DWELLINGS  -  MODE OF TRAVELLING  -   EMPLOYMENTS
OF THE PEOPLE  -  WINE  -  MAKING   -  LOWER CLASSES  -  ASCENT OF PICO RUIVO   -
NATURAL HISTORY  -  Q.IJINTA OF MR. BEAN  -  SCHOONER STAR SAVED FROM WRECK
  -  DEPARTURE FROM MADEIRA

CHAPTER II.  025  026  027  028  029  030  031  032  033  034  035  036  037  038  039  040  041  042  043  044
SQUADRON SAILS FROM MADEIRA   -  CURRENTS  -  SEARCH FOR SHOALS AND VIGIAS
  -  ARRIVAL AT ST. JAGO   -  APPEARANCE OF THE ISLAND  -  TOWN OF PORTO PRAYA  -  ITS
POPULATION  -   LANGUAGE  -   VISIT TO THE GOVERNOR  -  PUBLIC FOUNTAIN   -
MARKET  -  DRILL OF RECRUITS  -  DROUGHTS  -  CLIMATE  -  SLAVES  -  DRESS  -  DEPARTURE
FROM PORTO PRAYA  -  FURTHER SEARCH FOR SHOALS, ETC.  -  ARRIVAL AT
RIO JANEIRO

CHAPTER III.  045  046  047  048  049  050  051  052  053  054  055  056  057  058  059  060  061  062  063  064  065  066  067  068  069  070  071  072  073  074
CITY OF SAN SALVADOR  -  ITS IMPROVEMENT  -  ITS PRESENT CONDITION   -  CHURCHES
THE MISERICORDIA  -  FUNERALS  -  EMPEROR'S BIRTHDAY  -  AQUEDUCTS  -  GEOLOGICAL
CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY  -  PUBLIC GARDEN  -  MUSEUM  -  BAY AND HARBOUR
VEGETATION  -   BOTANIC GARDEN  -  SLAVE POPULATION   -  COFFEE   -   CARRIERS  -
RESEARCHES INTO THE NATIONS OF AFRICA  -  TREATMENT OF SLAVES  -  STREETS OF
THE CITY  -  SOCIETY  -  WHITE  -  JACKET BALL  -  ARRIVAL OF THE RELIEF  -  ASCENT
OF THE SUGAR  -  LOAF  -  SURVEYS  -  DEFECTS IN THE EQUIPMENT OF THE SQUADRON
  -   TRIP TO THE ORGAN MOUNTAINS   -   JAUNT TO PIEDADE   -   CONCLUSION OF THE
SURVEYS AND OBSERVATIONS  -  ASCENT OF THE CORCOVADO

CHAPTER IV.  075  076  077  078  079  080  081  082  083  084  085  086  087  088  089
CHARACTER OF THE BRAZILIANS  -  CONSTITUTION OF THE EMPIRE  -  RULING PARTY  -  ELECTIVE REGENCY  -  ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE  -  ELECTIVE FRANCHISE  -  ARMY
  -  NAVY  -   SCHOOLS  -   SLAVERY  -   FEELING TOWARDS FOREIGNERS  -   POPULATION  -  NATIONAL
DEBT, REVENUE, AND EXPENDITURES   -   COMMERCE   -  EVENTS IN THE
SQUADRON  -  DEPARTURE FROM RIO

CHAPTER V.   090  091  092  093  094  095  096  097  098  099  100  101  102  103  104  105  106  107  108  109  110  111  112  113  114  115  116
PASSAGE TO RIO NEGRO  -  ARRIVAL THERE  -  GUACHOS  -  EXCURSION OF THE
NATURALISTS  -  SALT AND SALT LAKES  -  GOVERNMENT AND POPULATION  -  PRODUCTIONS
TARIFF  -  INDIANS  -  WANT OF ENTERPRISE  -  DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY  -  RIVER
AND TIDES   -  CLIMATE   -  VEGETATION  -  TRADE   -   HARBOUR  -  SQUADRON DRIVEN TO
SEA  -  DANGERS IN SURVEYING  -   CONVICT SETTLEMENT  -  COMMUNICATION WITH
BUENOS AYRES  -  DEPARTURE FROM RIO NEGRO  -  STATEN LAND  -  STRAITS OF LEMAIRE  -  APPEARANCE OF TERRA DEL FUEGO  -  ITS HARBOUR   -   PARHELION  -  MIRAGE
  -  MEETING WITH THE RELIEF  -  HER DEPARTURE FROM RIO  -  CURRENT  -  RIO PLATA
  -  CAPE RASA  -  CAPE ST. JOSEPH  -  CAPE THREE POINTS  -  DREDGING  -  BELLACO ROCKS
  -  CAPE ST. DIEGO  -  GOOD SUCCESS BAY  -  CAPTAIN KING'S SAILING DIRECTIONS
NATIVES   -  INTERCOURSE WITH THEM  -   BOTANY  -   GEOGRAPHICAL POSITION  -  NEW
ISLAND  -  ITS POSITION  -  ARRIVAL AT ORANGE HARBOUR  -  EMPLOYMENTS.

CHAPTER VI. 117  118  119  120  121  122  123  124  125  126  127  128  129
ORANGE HARBOUR  -  PLAN OF THE SQUADRON'S OPERATIONS  -  NATIVES  -  THEIR
APPEARANCE  -  THEIR HUTS  -  ARRIVAL OF MORE NATIVES  -  THEIR TALENT FOR
MIMICKRY   -   VISIT TO THEIR HUTS  -  THEIR FOOD  -  SOIL NEAR ORANGE HARBOUR
  -  TIDES  -  WHALES

CHAPTER VII.  130  131  132  133  134  135  136  137  138  139  140  141  142  143  144  145
DEPARTURE OF PORPOISE   -  WHALE.SIHP  -  HEIGHT OF WAVES  -  KING GEORGE'S ISLAND  -
O'BRIEN'S AND ASPLAND'S ISLANDS  -  PALMER'S LAND  -  ADVENTURE ISLETS  -    -
GALE  -  SEA  -  GULL ORDERED TO RETURN  -  RETURN OF THE PORPOISE   -  ELEPHANT
ISLAND  -  GOOD SUCCESS BAY  -  BOAT DETAINED  -  ATTEMPT TO RELIEVE  -  ACCIDENT
  -  LIEUTENANT HARTSTEIN  -  GALE  -  FURTHER ATTEMPT TO RELIEVE THE PARTYPORPOISE
COMPELLED TO PUT TO SEA  -  CAPE ST. DIEGO  -  ANCHOR OFF IT  -  RETURN
TO GOOD SUCCESS BAY  -  PARTY JOIN  -  THEIR TRANSACTIONS  -  LEAVE GOOD SUCCESS
BAY  -  NASSAU BAY  -  DARK NIGHT  -  FIND OURSELVES AMONG KELP  -  ANChORNATIVES  -
REACh ORANGE HARBOUR  -  ALL WELL  -  SEA  -  GULL  -  DECEPTION ISLANDPENGUINS  -
SEA LEOPARD  -  TEMPERATURE  -  VISIT TO CRATER  -  FORCE OF WINDCAPTAIN
SMILEY  -  DEPARTURE  -  ARRIVAL AT ORANGE HARBOUR  -  SENT IN SEARCH
OF LAUNCH  -  LOSS OF THAT BOAT  -  RETURN OF SEA  -  GULL  -  AGAIN SAILS FOR WOLLASTON'S
ISLAND   -   BAILY ISLAND  -  SEA  -  GULL HARBOUR   -  ARRIVAL OF FLYING  -  FISH

CHAPTER VIII.  146  147  148  149  150  151  152  153  154  155  156  157  158  159  160  161
DEPARTURE OF PEACOCK AND FLYING  -  FISH  -  GALE  -  RETURN TO ANCHOR  -  FINAL
DEPARTURE  -  DIEGO RAMIERES  -  GALE  -  SEPARATION  -  DEFECTIVE OUTFITS OF PEACOCK  -
CURRENT  -  GALE  -  ACCIDENT TO WILLIAM STEWART  -  HIS RESCUE  -  DEATH  -    -
FIRST ICEBERG  -  DIP OBSERVATIONS  -  WEATHER  -  ICEBERGS AND SNOW  -  GALE
SITUATION OF PEACOCK  -  BIRDS  -  AURORA AUSTRALIS  -  DEEP SEA SOUNDING  -  FOG
PETRELS  -  BREAKING ASUNDER OF ICEBERGS  -  DENSE FOG  -  DANGERS  -  SNOW  -  STORM
  -    -  OBSERVATIONS  -  FLYING  -  FISH REJOINS  -  LIEUTENANT WALKER'S REPORT  -  SITUA
TION OF VESSELS  -  COUNCIL OF OFFICERS  -  CAPTAIN HUDSON RESOLVES TO RE
TURN  -  WEATHER  -  AURORA  -  GALE  -  SHIP ON FIRE  -  FLYING  -  FISH DESPATCHED FOR
ORANGE HARBOUR  -  GALE  -  ACCIDENT TO ROYAL HOPE  -  PHOSPHORESCENCE OF SEA
  -  WHALE  -  SHIP  -  ARRIVAL OF PEACOCK AT VALPARAISO  -  FIND THE RELIEF  -  LIEU
TENANT  -  COMMANDANT LONGS INSTRUCTIONS  -   DIFFICULTIES ENCOUNTERED
GALE  -  TOWER ROCKS  -  ANCHOR UNDER NOIR ISLAND  -  DANGEROUS POSITION  -  LOSS
OF ANCHORS  -  AWFUL NIGHT  -  PART CABLES  -  NARROW ESCAPE  -  CONDUCT OF
MANDANT AND OFFICERS  -  COUNCIL  -  DETERMINATION OF IT  -  PROCEED TO VALPA.
RAISO  -  ARRIVAL OFF THE PORT  -  COMMANDANT LOCKE, H. B. M. SHIP FLY  -  RELIEF
ANCHORS  -  ARRIVAL OF FLYING  -  FISH AT ORANGE HARBOUR  -  PREPARATIONS FOR
DEPARTURE  -  WINDS - TEMPERATURE - BAROMETRICAL RANGE - CLIMATE - ANIMALS
 - WOLF - BIRDS - ORANGE HARBOUR - VINCENNES AND PORPOISE TAKE THEIR DEPARTURE -
SEA - GULL AND FLYING - FISH TO AWAIT THE RELIEF - ANCHOR IN SCA.
PENHAM BAY - GALE - ORANGE BAY - FINAL DEPARTURE  - VINCENNES AND POR.
POISE PART COMPANY  -  ALBATROSS -  DYSENTERY -  ISLAND OF MOCHA - TRADE
WINDS - VINCENNES' ARRIVAL AT VALPARAISO - ARRIVAL OF PORPOISE AND FLYING -
FISH - HEAVY GALE - SEA - GULL LAST SEEN - WHALER

CHAPTER IX.  162  163  164  165  166  167  168  169  170  171  172  173
APPROACH THE COAST - CORDILLERAS - VISIT TO AUTHORITIES OF VALPARAISO
LANDING OF INSTRUMENTS - CUSTOM - HOUSE OFFICERS - MR. COOD - OBSERVATORY
G. C. HOBSON, ESQ. - NORTIIERS - PERCEPTIBLE CHANGE IN THE BAY - VALPARAISO
 - DESCRIPTION OF IT - ITS ORDER AND GOVERNMENT - TRAIT OF CHILIANS - POLICE
 - THEIR SIGNAL - SHOPS - AMUSEMENTS - CHINGANO - DANCES - SAMACUECA - HIGHER
CLASSES - DRESS - TASTE FOR MUSIC - FONDNESS FOR FLOWERS - GENERAL PRIETO
 - HONOURS PAID HIM - BALL - DESCRIPTION OF IT

CHAPTER X. 174  175  176  177  178  179  180  181  182  183  184  185  186  187  188  189  190  191  192  193  194  195  196  197  198  199  200  201  202  203  204  205  206  207  208
JOURNEY INTO THE INTERIOR - BILOCHES - TRAVELLING - CASA BLANCA -
GEOLOGICAL FORMATION  - CURACOVI  - HEATH ABOVE THE SEA  - CUESTA DR ZAPATA
CUESTA DEL PRADA - ROADS  - TRANSPORTATION OF GOODS - BEGGARS - PLAIN OF
MAYPO  -  CORDILLERAS  -  ST. JAGO  -  MINT - LIBRARY  -  AMUSEMENTS -  FASHIONS
MARKET -  CLIMATE -  EXCURSION TO THE CORDILLERAS  - MOUNTAIN SCENERY
SNOW - QUANACOES - IIEAT - RETURN TO ST. JAGO - MAYPOCHO - JOURNEY TO SAN
FELIPE -  QUILLOTA  - TUPONGATI PEAK DIKES  -  EVANCELISTO CELIDONO - FARM
HOUSE - ATCIIING WILD IJORSES - RANCHO - ENTERTAINMENT - ARRIVAL AT SAN
FELIPE DR ACONCAGUAMR. NEWMAN'S - MR. CHASE - TOWN OF SAN FELIPE
CHICIIA AND AGUARDIENTETHEIR MANUFACTURE - AGRICULTURAL IMPLEMENTS
 - VISIT THE COPPER MINES - MODES OF WORKING THEM -  ThEIR SITUATION
TRANSPORTATION OF ORES - WAGES - TEMPERANCE REGULATIONS - LAKE ON THE
HIGH CORDILLERAS - COPPER ORES - RETURN TO SAN FELIPE - KINDNESS OF MR.
NEWMAN AND LADY - CELIDONO - QUILLOTA - RETURN TO VALPARAISO - EARTH.
(WAKES -  PROTESTANT CHURCH - LIBERALITY OF PRIESTHOOD -  ORACION  -  COM
MERCE  - EXPORTS - IMPORTS  - FOREIGN VESSELS  - POPULATION -  - COLLEGES -  CON.
GRESS -  IMPROVEMENTS IN PROGRESS  - REVENUE  - NATIONAL DEBT - CLIMATE
FRUITS - ADMINISTRATION -  - EXECUTIVE - SENATEIIOUSE OF DEPUTIES - MILITIA
ARMY - NAVY - G. G. HOBSON, ESQ., U. S. CONSUL - LIEUTENANT CRAVEN - HIS GAL
LANT CONDUCT - CAPTAIN ISAAC M'KEEVER - U. S. SHIP FALMOUTH - FLYING - FISH
GALE - SEA - GULL LAST SEEN - HER LOSS - PASSED MIDSHIPMAN JAMES W. E. REID
PASSED MIDSHIPMAN FREDERICK A. BACON - ADMINISTRATION OF GOVERNMENT
OF CHILI

CHAPTER XI.  209  210  211  212  213  214  215  216  217  218  219  220  221  222  223  224  225
WANT OF CORRECT HISTORICAL RECORDS  - O'HIGGINS DECLARED SUPREME
DICTATOR - RESIGNS IN J823 - COUNCIL OF STATE APPOINTED - GENERAL FREYRE LANDS
AT VALPAILAISO - ARREST OF O'HIGGINS - HIS RELEASE - GENERAL RAMON FREYRE
ASSUMES THE GOVERNMENT - RETIRES TO PRIVATE LIFE - ADMIRAL BLANCO PRE
SIDENT - BLANCO RESIGNS - SUCCEEDED BY VICE - PRESIDENT - HIS RESIGNATION
FREYRE AGAIN CHOSEN PRESIDENT - FREYRE RESIGNS - PRIETO BECOMES PRESI
DENT  - RESIGNS - PRESIDENT OF THE SENATE ACTS - ELECTION HELD  -  PRIETO
ELECTED - REFUSES TO SERVE - VICUNEA PRESIDENT OF SENATE - TROUBLES
JUNTA APPOINTED - CIVIL WAR - ABANDONMENT OF THE CAPITAL  -  FREYRE
CALLED IN - JOINS THE PRESIDENTS PARTY - BATTLE OF LIRCAI, APRIL, 1830 - DE
FEAT OF FREYRE - HIS BANISHMENT TO PERU - NEW ELECTION - DON FRANCISCO
TAGLE RETURNED AS PRESIDENT - OVALLE AS VICE - PRESIDENT - BOTH RESIGN
PRESIDENT OF SENATE AGAIN ACTS - NEW ELECTION - GENERAL PRIETO ELECTED,
JULY, 1831 - STATE OF THE COUNTRY - HIS ADMINISTRATION - DIEGO PORTALES
 - SYSTEM OF REFORM - MILITIA SYSTEM - ESTABLISHES PUBLIC CREDIT - CIVIL
RULE - TRANSACTIONS WITH PERU - RATIFICATION OF TREATY, AND RECEPTION
OF MINISTER - CIVIL WAR IN PERU - DEFEAT OF SALAVERRY - NEW ORGANIZATION
OF PERUVIAN GOVERNMENT - RUPTURE BETWEEN CHILI AND PERU - SECRET
EXPEDITION UNDER GENERAL FREYRE - INTELLIGENCE OF IT RECEIVED IN CHILI -
ACTIVITY OF GOVERNMENT - CAPTURE OF FREYRE - HIS SECOND BANISHMENT -
POPULARITY OF THE ADMINISTRATION - SEIZURE OF PERUVIAN VESSELS - SUSPENSION
OF HOSTILITIES - CONVENTION - CHILI REFUSES TO RATIFY THE PROCEEDINGS
CHILI SENDS HER FLEET - CHILI DECLARES WAR - EXPEDITION ORGANIZED -
DECREE OF PRESIDENT PRIETO - EXPEDITION FITTED OUT UNDER ADMIRAL BLANCO
 - TROOPS QUARTERED AT QUILLOTA - PORTALES' INSPECTION OF TROOPS - HIS
ARREST - VIDAURRE'S MUTINY - ACTA OF OFFICERS - NEWS REACHES VALPARAISO
CONSTERNATION  -  CONDUCT OF MILITIA  -  VIDAURRES DEMANDS - PORTALES
NOBLE CONDUCT - VIDAURRES ATTACK ON VALPARAISO - TIES DEFEAT AND FLIGHT
 - PORTALES' DEATH - VIDAURRE CAPTURED AND BROUGHT TO VALPARISO - TRIAL
AND EXECUTION - EXPEDITION SAILS TO PERU - ITS FAILURE - TREATY OF
PAUCARPATA - EXPEDITION RETURNS - BLANCO DEPRIVED OF HIS COMMAND - BULNES
NEW EXPEDITION - ITS DEPARTURE

CHAPTER XII.  226  227  228  229  230  231  232  233  234  235  236  237  238  239  240  241  242  243  244  245  246  247  248  249
PORPOISE SAILS - ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS - DIFFICULTIES OF LEAVING THE
BAY - REGULATIONS OF PORT BADLY OBSERVED - CONDUCT OF THE CAPTAIN OF
HAMBURG VESSEL - DEPARTURE - PART COMPANY WITH PEACOCK AND TENDER
EVENTS ON PASSAGE TO CALLAO - ZODIACAL LIGHTS - MAKE THE COAST OF PERU
 - TEMPERATURE OF WATER - ENTER BOUQUERON PASSAGE - ANCHOR AT SAN LO.
RENZO - GEOLOGICAL STRUCTURE OF ISLAND - BURYING - GROUND - ARRIVAL OF FAL.
MOUTH - CAPTAIN M'KEEVER - HIS KINDNESS - DESERTERS - CONDUCT OF CREW OF
RELI EF - PUNISUMENT - EFFECTUAL SUPPRESSION OF SUCH CONDUCT - COURT - MAR.
TIAL - JUSTWICATION - CHANGE OF ANCHORAGE TO CALLAO - HEIGHT OF LIMA  -
MOLE - CALLAO - VESSELS IN PORT - CASTLE - DESCRIPTION OF HOUSES - RELIGIOUS
PRACTICES - MARKET - REVIEW OF TROOPS - OLD CALLAO  -  EFFECTS OF EARTH
QUAKE - VAULTS FOR DEPOSITING THE DEAD - POPULATION OF CALLAO - FOURTH
OF JULY - ROAD TO LIMA - DEVASTATIONS - BELLA VISTA - APPROACH TO LIMA - EN
TRANCE AND APPEARANCE - ITS PLAN -  AMUSEMENTS - SAYA AND MANTA - ITS
PRIVILEGES -  DESCRIPTION OF IT  -  HOUSES -  PORTALES OR ARCADES - PALACE
FOUNTAIN  -  CATHEDRAL  - CRYPT  - NOVEL HEARSE -  MARKET -  CONVENT OF SAN
FRANCISCO - LIBRARY - SIGNATURE OF PIZARRO - FOUNDING OF LIMA - THEATRE
NAVAL SCHOOL - CLASSES OF NATIVES - POPULATION - NEWSPAPERS - HANDBILLS
FESTIVAL - CORPUS CHRISTI - MR. MATIIEWS - MANLJFACTORIES - FESTIVAL OF ST.
JOHN'S -  AMANCAES  - CELEBRATION  - EARTHQUAKES - EFFECTS PRODUCED - GATE
WAY OF NAVAL SCHOOL - CLIMATE - RAIN - MEAN TEMPERATURE - HEALTH - RIMAC
 - IRRIGATION - HARVEST - CHILIAN ARMY - STATE OF THE COUNTRY - MANNER OF
RECRUITING THE ARMY - TREATMENT OF SLAVES - DEATH OF BENJAMIN HOLDEN
 - SMALL - POX - PRECAUTIONS ADOPTED

CHAPTER XIII.  250  251  252  253  254  255  256  257  258  259  260  261  262  263  264  265  266  267  268  269  270  271  272  273  274  275  276  277  278  279  280  281
A PARTY FOR THE INTERIOR - PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY - PASSPORTS - MR.
BIGGS - DEPARTURE - EFFECT OF OFFICIAL PAPERS - FACE OF COUNTRY - RUINS OF
INCA TOWNS - PONCHORUA - CABALLEROS - CONVOY OF SILVER - ACCOMMODATIONS
 - EARTHQUAKE - ROUTE UP THE VALLEY OF CAXAVILLO - FACE OF COUNTRY - 43T.
ROSA E UIVI - YASO - OBRAJILLO - DIFFICULTIES IN PROCURING MULES - BEAUTY
OF SITUATION - LLAMAS - RIOTERS - PLUNDERING OF INHABITANTS - CULNAI  - LA
VINDA - VEGETATION - MULETEERS ENCOUNTERED  - REACH THE CREST OF THE
CORDILLERAS - CASA CANCHA - ITS ACCOMMODATIONS - COOKING RANGE - SICKNESS
OF PARTY - SNOW - STORM - ALPAMARCA - COMPANY OF PERUVIANS - THEIR ATTEN
TIONS - PROCESS OF AMALGAMATION OF ORE - MR. BEVAN - VISIT TO THE MINE
FACE OF THE MOUNTAIN - ROAD - BANOS - HOT SPRING - BEAUTY OF VALLEY - VE
GETATION - THREATENED ATTACK OF A CONDOR - PORTRAIT - INCIDENTS RELATING
TO IT - DESCRIPTION OF BANOS - ITS HABITATIONS - STATE OF HORSES - RETURN TO
CASA CANCHA - CHILIAN CONVOY FROM PASCO - PASCO - MINES - VEINS OF ORE
NUMBER OF MINES IN OPERATION - LAWS IN RELATION TO SILVER MINED - DUTIES
 - HILL OF RACO  -  NEW SPECULATIONS IN 1840  -  DIFFICULTIES IN PURCHASING
MINES - THE POLITICAL STATE OF THE COUNTRY ADVERSE TO THIS BUSINESS
TEMPERATURE - BEAUTY OF SITUATION OF CASA CANCHA - THEIR DEPARTURE ON
THEIR RETURN - LINE OF PERPETUAL SNOW - AMMONITE - CHICRINE - TRAVELLING
PARTIES  - FRENCHMAN - HIS COMPLIMENTS - CULNAI - CULTIVATION - HOSP1TALITY
 - OBRAJ1LLO - ACCOMMODATIONS - WANT OF GALLANTRY - GUIDES - SETTLEMENT -
BRIDAL PARTY - YASO - ROBBERY - YANGA - HOSTESS - ANGELITA - CALLABEROS - RETURN
TO LIMA - BOTANICAL REVIEW - GEOLOGICAL CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY
 - FLYING - FISH SENT TO PACHACAMAC - LANDING - TEMPLE - TOWN - TOMBS - THEIR
CONTENTS - EMBARKATION - RETURN TO CALLAO

CHAPTER XIV. 282  283  284  285  286  287  288  289  290  291  292  293  294  295  296  297  298  299  300  301  302  303  304
SELF - AGGRANDIZEMENT THE OBJECT OF RULERS - END OF REVOLUTIONARY WAR
GENERAL BOLIVAR DICTATOR - HIS AUTHORITY CEASES - GENERAL LA MAR ELECTED
 - GAMARRA'S TREACHERY - LA MAR ARRESTED AND BANISHED - GAMARRA AND
LAFUENTE ELECTED - ATTEMPTS TO SEIZE LAFUENTE - HIS ESCAPE - EXECUTION
OF MAJOR ROSEL  - CONVENTION CONVOKED  -  GAMARRA RESIGNS  -  ORBEJOSO
ELECTED - REVOLUTION BY BERMUDEZ AND GAMARRA - BERMUDEZ CAPTURED
ORBEJOSO'S AUTHORITY RESTORED  - SALAVERRY REVOLTS - DECLARES HIMSELF
SUPREME DICTATOR - UNITES WITH GAMARRA - GAMARRA DEFEATED - ARRESTED
BY SALAVERRY AND BANISHED - SALAVERRY MARCHES AGAINST SANTA CRUZ
BATTLE OF SOCABAYA - SALAVEItRY DEFEATED - TAKEN PRISONER - TRIED AND
SHOT - ORBEJOSO REINSTATED - TREATY WITH CHILI NULLIFIED - SANTA CRUZ'S
INTRIGUES -  DISMEMBERMENT OF PERU - ASSEMBLY OF SICUANI  - SANTA CRUZ
NAMED SUPREME PROTECTOR - CONVENTION OF HUARA - GENERAL FREYRE FITS
OUT AN EXPEDITION - CHILIAN CONSUL - GENERAL EVADES THE EMBARGO -
SEIZURE OF PERUVIAN VESSELS - NEGOTIATION - CESSATION OF HOSTILITIES -
INVASION OF ALTA PERU - DISASTROUS CAMPAIGN - TREATY OF PEACE - RETURN OF
CHILIAN ARMY - CHILIAN GOVERNMENT REFUSES TO RATIFY THE TREATY -
LEGION OF HONOUR -  DISCONTENT AT SANTA CRUZ'S POLICY - WAR AGAIN
COMMENCED - EXPEDITION FROM CHILI - INVASION OF PERU - BATTLE OF LIMA - LIMA
TAKEN  -  ORBEJOSO ESCAPES  -  GAMARRA NAMED PRESIDENT - SANTA CRUZ
MARCHES UPON LIMA - CHILIANS EMBARK - LAND AT HUARA - PURSUED BY SANTA
CRUZ - BATTLE OF YUNGAI - SANTA CRUZ TOTALLY DEFEATED - ESCAPES TO LIMA
 - THENCE TO AREQUIPA - SEEKS REFUGE ON BOARD A BRITISH SHIP OF WAR
BULNES SAILS AGAIN FOR CALLAO - DISEMBARKS HIS TROOPS - TAKES POSSESSION
OF LIMA - CONGRESS CONVOKED -  GAMARRA ELECTED PRESIDENT - RESULTS OF
BATTLE OF YUNGAI - BULNES WITH HIS ARMY RETURNS TO CHILI - GAMARRA GOES
TO AID BOLIVIA - HIS FORCES ROUTED, AND HIMSELF KILLED - CHARACTER OF
BOLIVAR - LA MAR GAMARRA - LAFUENTE - ORBEJOSO - SALAVEER  - SANTA CRUZ
 - HIS ACTS - COMMERCE - PERU AND CHILI - IMPORTS - EXPORTS - TRADE WITH THE
UNITED STATES

CHAPTER XV.  305  306  307  308  309  310  311  312  313  314  315  316  317  318  319  320  321  322  323  324  325  326  327  328  329  330  331  332  333  334  335  336  337  338  339  340  341  342  343  344  345
STORE - SHIP RELIEF - EDWIN BARTLETT, ES - EDWARD M'CALL, ES. - DEPARTURE
CAPTAIN M'KEEVER - PERUVIAN BRIG - SMALL - POX  - GENERAL ORDER - PROPOSED
ROUTE  - CURRENTS  -  EXPERIMENTS -  TEMPERATURE - ALEXANDER OGLE  -  CLER
MONT DE TONNERRE - APPEARANCE OF IT - SURVEY - NATIVES - JOHN SAC - DIFFI
CULTIES WITH NATIVES - LANDING -  - SERLE ISLAND - HONDEN -  SURVEYS -  CORAL
ISLANDS  - VEGETATION - BIRDS, ETC. - DISAPPOINTMENT ISLANDS - INHABITANTS -  -
WYTOOHEE - OTOOHO - TAIARO - RARAKA - LANDING - ONE - HANDED CHIEF - HIS VISIT
TO THE SHIP - INHABITANTS - CATCHING FISH - LEAVE - TAKING  - GALE - NARROW
ESCAPE OF PEACOCK - PORPOISE DESPATCHED - VINCENNES ISLAND - CRITICAL PO
SITION OF TENDER - LANDING - ARATICA ISLAND - COMMUNICATION WITH ITS IN
HABITANTS - LANDING - VILLAGE - DESCRIPTION OF ISLAND - FRESH WATER - FOOD
 - TENDER DESPATCHED TO KING GEORGE'S GROUP - VINCENNES AND PEACOCK DIS
COVER MANHII AND AllIl ISLANDS - SURVEY - LANDING - OBSERVATIONS - NATIVES -  -  -
DESERTER  -  ECLIPSE  - PEACOCK DESPATCHED TO RURICK ISLAND  -  VINCENNES
PASSES TO NAIRSA - INHABITANTS - KRUSENSTERN'S ISLAND - METIA ISLAND - ITS
APPEARANCE - SURVEY - LANDING - NATIVES - MISSIONARIES' KINDNESS  - COSTUMES
 - ASCEND THE ISLAND - VEGETATION - APPEARANCE OF THE ISLAND - DEPARTURE
 - ARRIVAL AT TAHITI - ANCHOR IN MATAVAI BAY  - OBSERVATIONS ON POINT
VENUS - PROCEEDINGS OF PORPOISE - PROCEEDINGS OF PEACOCK - ARUTUA - SURVEY
 - NAIRSA OR DEAN'S ISLAND - CORAL BLOCKS - METIA ISLAND - OBSERVATIONS
TETUAROA - FLYING - FISH - TIOKEA AND OURA - HISTORY OF PAUMOTU GROUP -
CHARACTER OF ITS INHABITANTS - POPULATION

APPENDIX.  346  347  348  349  350  351  352  353  354  355  356  357  358  359  360  361  362  363  364  365  366  367  368  369  370  371  372  373  374  375  376  377  378  379  380  381  382  383  384  385  386  387  388  389  390  391  392  393  394  395  396  397  398  399  400  401  402  403  404  405  406  407  408  409  410  411  412  413  414  415  416  417  418  419  420  421  422  423  424  425  426  427  428  429  430  431  432
I. STATEMENT IN RELATION TO LIEUTENANT HUDSON 351
II. LETTER FROM THE HON. JOEL R. POINSETT 351
III. LETTER FROM LIEUTENANT HUDSON 352
IV. NAVY GENERAL ORDER 353
V. MEMORANDUM FOR THE COMMANDER OF THE EXPEDITION TO EXPLORE
    THE SOUTH SEAS 354
VI. LETTERS TO THE HON. JAMES K. PAULD1NG, AND COMMODORE L. WARRINGTON
VII. ORDERS TO THE RELIEF 361
VIII. GENERAL ORDER, NO. 1  361
IX. ORDERS RESPECTING THE RECEIPT, SAFE KEEPING, AND EXPENDITURE OF
PROVISIONS, STORES, ETC 362
X. GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS RELATIVE TO OBSERVATIONS 363
XI. INSTRUCTIONS, PORTION OF, PROMULGATED TO OFFICERS 364
XII. GENERAL ORDER RELATIVE TO JOURNALS 367
XIII. LETTER TO LIEUTENANT CRAVEN EXPLANATORY OF GENERAL ORDER
RELATIVE TO JOURNALS 367
XIV. ORDER TO PURSERS, AND LETTER TO SECRETARY OF THE NAVY RELATIVE
TO MARINES' BOUNTY 369
XV. LETTER TO THE HON. JAMES K. PAULDING, AND REPORT FROM LIEUTENANT
HUDSON RELATIVE TO DEFECTS OF PEACOCK 370
XVI. METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS UNDER THE EQUATOR 373
XVII. METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS AT RIO JANEIRO 375
XVIII. MEMORANDUM OF PASSAGES FROM THE UNITED STATES TO RIO JANEIRO
FOR EIGHT YEARS 379
XIX. ORDERS RELATIVE TO PERSONAL APPEARANCE, SCIENTIFIC DUTIES, ETC. 380
XX. ORDERS TO CAPTAIN HUDSON FOR SURVEY, ETC  384
XXI. POPULATION OF BRAZIL  385
XXII. STATEMENT OF THE EXPORTS OF THE PRINCIPAL PRODUCTS OF BRAZIL
DURING THE YEAR 386
XXIII. RESULT OF THE MEASUREMENT OF A BASE LINE BY SOUND BETWEEN
CAPE FRIO LIGHT - HOUSE AND ENXADOS ISLAND  387
XXIV. SAILING INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE RELIEF, PEACOCK, PORPOISE, ETC 391
XXV. ORDERS TO CAPTAIN HUDSON FOR ANTARCTIC CRUISE 394
XXVI. ORDERS TO LIEUTENANT R. E. JOHNSON FOR ANTARCTIC CRUISE. 397
XXVII. ORDERS TO LIEUTENANT W. M. WALKER FOR ANTARCTIC CRUISE  398
XXVIII. GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR BOAT DUTY, SURVEYING, ETC  400
XXIX. INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE VINCENNES 402
XXX. ORDERS TO LIEUTENANT - COMMANDANT LONG 404
XXXI. CAPTAIN HUDSON'S AND LIEUTENANT WALKER'S REPORTS 405
XXXII. ORDER TO SEA - GULL 415
XXXIII. GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS IN RELATION TO THE COLLECTION AND PRESERVATION
OF SPECIMENS, SHELLS, ETC 415
XXXIV. ORDERS TO LIEUTENANT CRAVEN, AND PAPERS RELATIVE TO HIM 418
XXXV. GENERAL ORDER RELATIVE TO GOOD CONDUCT OF CREW 420
XXXVI. ORDER TO LIEUTENANT PINKNEY 420
XXXVII. GENERAL ORDER RELATIVE TO COURT OF INQUIRY 421
XXXVIII. LETTER FROM OFFICERS OF THE EXPEDITION, AND GENERAL ORDER 422
XXXIX. ORDERS TO SQUADRON 423
XL. ORDERS TO RELIEF 425
XLI. ORDERS FOR OBSERVATIONS, MODE OF SURVEYING CORAL ISLANDS, ETC. 427
XLII. LETTER RELATIVE TO THE WANT OF CONFORMITY TO ORDERS 432
XLIII. ORDER RELATIVE TO CORAL SPECIMENS 433
XLIV. ORDERS TO PORPOISE 433
XLV. ORDERS TO TENDER FLYING - FISH 434





PLATES


Click for plate at 100 ppi
DESCRIPTION

Charles Wilkes,
Commander, U.S.N.
(frontispiece)
400 ppi plate

Expedition Track Plots
(frontispiece)
400 ppi plate

Estroza Pass, Madiera
(page 2)
400 ppi plate

Heath Forest, Madiera
(page 15)
400 ppi plate

Patagonian
(page 92)
400 ppi plate

Lima Gate Way
(page 228)
400 ppi plate

La Vinda Mountain, Peru
(page 255)
400 ppi plate

Banõs, Peru
(page 262)
400 ppi plate

Low Archipelago, or
Paumotu Group (1839)
(page 306)
400 ppi plate

Table 23: Results of the Measurement of a
Base Line by Sound, Between
Cape Frio Light-house and Enxados Island
(page 391)
400 ppi plate