Library of 19th Century Science:
The Golden Age of Geology

HMS Challenger


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THE RIVERS, MOUNTAINS AND SEACOAST OF YORKSHIRE

With Essays on the

Climate, Scenery, and Ancient Inhabitants of the County.


by

JOHN PHILLIPS, M.A., F.R.S.,
Deputy Reader in Geology of Yorkshire,

Author of Illustrations of the Geology of Yorkshire,
and of a Geological Map of the County.


SECOND EDITION

London, John Murray

1855

This electronic edition prepared by Dr. David C. Bossard
from the original documents in the holdings of Dartmouth College.

July, 2008

Copyright © 2006 by Dr. David C. Bossard.  All rights reserved.


CONTENTS.

Titlepage


FRONTISPIECE  ii

DEDICATION AND AUTOGRAPH  v  vi

PREFACE  vii  viii

CONTENTS ix  x  xi  xii  xiii  xiv  xv

ERRATA xvi

CHAPTER I.  PRINCIPAL FEATURES OF PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.  001  002  003  004  005  006  007  008  009  010  011  012  013  014  015
Natural boundaries and divisions of Yorkshire 1
Natural districts classed 2
Dependence of natural features on geological structure 5
Main slopes of the surface - physical origin of these 6, 7
Valleys originally shaped by the sea 9
Features of individual hills, valleys and cliffs 10
Waterfalls, their origin 12
Fissures, Swallow holes, caves 13,14
Geology explains Physical Geography 15

CHAPTER II. MOUNTAINS OF YORKSHIRE.  016  017  018  019  020  021  022  023  024  025  026  027  028  029  030  031  032  033  034  035  036  037  038  039  040  041
Mickle Fell group - peculiar plants 16,17
Stainmoor - transport of erratics - the ancient Camp of Rey Cross 18, 19
Hougill Fells - Codley Spout 20
Water Crag - Swaledale Head 20
Shunnor Fell - the Buttertubs - Wild Boar Fell 21
Widdale Fell - Dod Fell 22
Fells between Yoredale and Wharfdale 23
Fells between Wharfdale and Nidderdale 24
Wheruside - Great Cohn - Yordas Cave  24 - 26
Ingleborough -  - Yarlsber - ancient camp on the summit 26,27,28
Ingleborough Caverns 29 - 35
Geology of Ingleborough 35
Penyghent - Fountain's Fell 36
Ryeloaf -  Brown Hill -  Barden Fell -  Greenhow Hill -  Almes Cliff, &c. 37,38
Bolland - Rombald's Moor - Otley Chevin, &c . 38, 39
Boulsworth Hill - Holme Moss, &c 39
Rosebury Toppin - Danby Beacon - Eston Nab - Burton Head
     -  Ralph Cross-Peak, &c.-Hambleton End-Whitstone Cliff, &c. 39,40
The Wold Hills-Wilton Beacon, &c.-their ancient condition 41.


CHAPTER III.  RIVERS OF YORKSHIRE.  042  043  044  045  046  047  048  049  050  051  052  053  054  055  056  057  058  059  060  061  062  063  064  065  066  067  068  069  070  071  072  073  074  075  076  077  078  079  080  081  082  083  084  085  086  087  088  089  090  091  092  093  094  095  096  097  098  099  100  101  102  103  104  105  106  107  108  109  110  111  112  113  114  115  116  117  118
Area drained by the Humber, &c 42
Rain-Springs-Rivers 43, 44
The Tees-its source, waterfalls, scenery 45-47
Roman Stations and Inscriptions-Camps at Bowes, Greta Bridge,
Eston Nab, &c.. 47-50
The Swale-wild scenery round its source 51
Course from Muker by Reeth to Richmond 52,53
Cataractonium-inscriptions-antiquities 54,55
Course to Topciffe and the junction of the Wisk.
    -Course of the Wisk,-junction with the Ure 56
The Ure-character of Wensleydale-Hawes 57
Numerous Waterfalls-Simmer Water 58
Inscriptions at Bainbridge-Addleborough 59, 60
Waterfalls at Askrigg and Aysgarth-Bolton Castle 60,61
Middleham Castle-Jervaux Abbey 62
Tanfield Hall-circular earth-works 63,64
Ripon-Aldborough (Isurium)
    -Devil's Arrows described by Leland, Camden, &c 64-66
Antiquities and inscriptions at Aldborough 68
The Ouse, formed by the junction of the Swale and the Ure 69
The Nidd-scenes round its origin 69,70
Harrogate-inscribed Pig of Lead 71,72
York-the war-centre of the North-its vicissitudes-camp of Eburacum-
antiquities-inscriptions, &c
The Wharfe-four regions of Wharfdale characterized 78,79
Bolton Abbey-Ilkley camp-altar-inscriptions-crosses 80-82
St. Helen's Ford-Tadcaster-Cawood 83
The Ouse-Ancient mounds on Skipwith Common-Selby 84
The Derwent-its singular course-Hackness-antiquities  84-86
The Rye-Rievaulx Abbey-Kirkdale Cave-Saxon sun-dial-Rosedale-
Byland Abbey-Gilling Castle-Hovingham-inscription  87-89
Malton, a Roman station-antiquities-roads-inscriptions 89,90
Ancient state of the Vale of Pickering 90
Stamford Brig-Wresill Castle-Leland 91, 92
The Aire-its source in Malham Cove-Skipton-Kirkstall Abbey
    Loidis in Elmete-Roman remains at Adel  82-95
Castleford, a Roman station-Pontefract 95,96
The Calder-to its junction with the Aire  96-98
The Aire and Calder,-curious petrifactions 99
The Dun-its woodland scenery-Camp and earth
    -works at Templeborough and Wincobank-Conisbrough Castle 99-101
Doncaster, a Roman station-Hatfield Chase-Thorne Waste  102,103
The Hull-Driffield-Beverley 104,105
The Gypseys-Rudston-great meteorite 105,106
The Esk-its varied and beautiful dales-British antiquities-waterfalls 106-109
The Ribble-mountains round its source-Silurian strata on its course
    -numerous caverns-remarkable erratic blocks-ebbing and flowing well
    -Hellifield-Gisburn-Bolton-Sawley Abbey-Clitheroe 110-113
The Lune-its beautiful course from Hougill Fells by Kirkby Lonsdale
    -Easgill Kirk-Kingsdale-Grassingham Camp-Lancaster 113-117
The Eden 117

CHAPTER IV.  THE SEA-COAST.  119  120  121  122  123  124  125  126  127  128  129  130  131  132  133  134  135  136  137  138  139  140  141  142
The Humber-its drainage-Brough Ferry-Hessle 118
Kingston-upon-Hull 118
The port of Ravenspurn-its antiquity-history-destruction.119
Spurn Head-Kilnsca, now ruined by the sea-Waste of Holderness
coast (see also Appendix) 121
Dimlington- Outhorne, now ruined by the sea 122
Sandley Meer-Aldborough-Hornsea-Skeleton of the Irish Elk in
a freshwater deposit 123,124
The 'escars' of Holderness-stranding of whales 124,125
Bridlington Quay-the spring-freshwater deposits-fall of the cliff
-discovery of Crag fossils-Priory 125,126
Flamborough cliffs and islands of chalk-Dane's Dike-Landing of
Ida's sons-the insulated peaks-north landing-cavern-the
highest part of the chalk cliff-the birds 126-129
Speeton-fossils 129
Filey Bay-ancient course of the Derwent-the Brig-sands-caves 130
Gristhorp-section of the strata-the fossil plants-tumulus 131
Cayton Bay-Carnelian Bay-White Nab-Wheatcroft Farm-Spaw 132
Scarborough-assault of Hardrada-Castle- Museum-Scalby-
Cloughton Wyke-Haiburn Wyke- Staintondale Cliff- undercliff
-section of strata-Blue Wick fossils 135,136
Robin Hood's Bay-Ravenshill-inscription-fault-section of the
Lias strata--Equiseta in cliff at High Whitby l37-139
Whitby-Dunum Sinus-Streoneshalh--Abbey- beauty of the vicinity
-Muscum-Pier-dislocation of strata-Sandsend-Plesiosaurus
-Kettleness-Runswick Bay-Staithes-fossils-Boulby or
Rockcliff- Plesiosaurus- Huntcliff-Saitburn - Redcar-Tees mouth 139-143

CHAPTER V.  CLIMATE.  143  144  145  146  147  148  149  150  151  152  153  154  155  156  157  158  159  160  161  162  163  164  165
Relation to the physical aspect of the county.-Temperature of air at
York,-of springs,-of each month.-Ranges of temperature,-of
four critical months in various places.-Postponement of temperature
in York Minster,-below the surface of ground,-in dales,-by
the sea-side.-Highest and lowest temperatures.-Temperature of
night and day.-Occurrence of frost.-Comparison of the climate of
York with that of other places within and beyond the boundary of
the county 143-152
Humidity of the air.-Fall of rain at York, in each month, compared
with that of London.-Fall of rain at several other places in Yorkshire.
-Number of days on which rain, hail or snow falls at York.
Wet-bulb experiments.-Experiments on the quantity of rain at
different heights above the ground. 152-161
Winds.-Prevalent directions of wind at York.-Effect on the air,-
on the local temperature.-Coldest wind,-warmest wind.-Comparative dampness of different winds.
-Character of rain with different winds.-Barometric pressure influenced by the direction of
wind.-The daily oscillation of the barometer 161-166


CHAPTER VI. MAGNETISM.  166  167
Magnetic elements at York-the declination toward the west-the
dip from the horizon-the magnetic force 166, 167



CHAPTER VII.  GEOLOGICAL HISTORY.  168  169  170  171  172  173  174  175  176  177  178  179  180  181  182  183  184  185  186  187  188  189  190  191
The Natural History of the land-traceable in order of succession of
events, but not to be expressed in chronology 168
Successive Life Periods-scale of such periods in Yorkshire. 169, 170
Their history sketched:
Proichthyan and Palichthyan Periods 171
Pterichthyan Period 172-474
Megalichthyan Period 174-177
Palaeoniscian Period 177
Palaosaurian and Teleosaurian Periods 178, 179
Megalosaurian Period 180, 181
Mosasaurian Period 181
Palaeotherian Period 182
Pre-glacial Period 183
Glacial Period 184
Post-glacial Period 185
Fauna of Yorkshire.-Animals of Kirkdale Cave-of Bielbecks-of the
alluvial deposits and subterranean forests 185-187
Origin of the Fauna and Flora of Yorkshire.-Migration, how possible
-with reference to submersion and elevation of land.-Traces of a
Scandinavian Flora.-Germanic Flora and Fauna.
-Conjecture regarding the first advent of Man 188-192.


CHAPTER VIII.  THE BRIGANTES.  192  193  194  195  196  197  198  199  200  201  202  203  204  205  206  207  208  209  210  211  212  213  214  215  216  217  218  219  220  221  222  223  224  225  226
Preparation of the earth for the residence of Man.-The Britons
    application of the term-contrasted by Strabo with the Celts-the
     keltoi of Herodotus 192, 193
Three races of men in Britain Cassiterides-Electrides. The Brigantes.-
Voyage of Pytheas 194
The Roman conquest-Ostorius Scapula-Caractacus--Cartismandua
-Venutius-Petilius Cerealis-Agricola-the Genunii 194-198
The Brigantian territory and people 198,199
The Language-names of rivers, mountains, persons and tribes 199-201
The Houses-compared with those of Gaul-pit foundations
    -Villages near Wapley and Skipwith-Cyttian on Ingleborough. 202-204
The Tumuli-burial of the body-cremation and enclosure of ashes in
urns.-Opening of tumuli on Acklam WoId,-near Driffield,-near
Arras and Weighton-Graves of the Charioteers-the Cairn of Ohtrush
Roque 204-211
The Raths of Lofthouse-Kildale--Kippax-Aldrow-Cropton-
Duggleby-Bishop Burton-Barwick 212,213
The Camps-Hutton Ambo-Langton-Thornthorpe 213,214
The Dikes and Oppida 214-216
The Stone Monuments-Rudstonc-Devil's Arrows-Long Stone
Wade's Graves-St. Austin's Stone-Rocking-stones-Circles of
stones 216-219
Circular earth-works-Nosterfield-near Penistone-Eston Nab--
Arbelow 219
The Pottery-its perishable character-its peculiar style-imitative
of the Bascauda 220
Distribution of the people.-Cities in the territory-Posts in the
dales-The dikes of Catterick and Stanwick-other earth-works.
Remains near llkley-Cambodunum-Conisbrough-Barwick in
Elmet-Isurium.- Populous districts near Cawthorn and Malton,
Acklam and Londesborough-their connection with the harbours of
Flamborough and Whitby, the Camp at York, and the South of
England 221-227


CHAPTER IX.  THE ROMANS.   227  228  229  230  231  232  233  234  235  236  237  238  239  240  241  242  243  244  245  246  247
The Sixth Legion at York soon after A.D. 117, and remained nearly
three centuries.-Roman geography 227
Ptolemy's Geography of Britain analysed:-the western coast-the
eastern coast-the towns of the interior.-Brigantian map according
to Ptolemy-its singular errors 228-232
The Itinera of Antoninus which relate to the Brigantian province 233, 234
The Notitia-stations of troops according to this document.-The
Chorography of Ravennas 235-238
Roman Roads, traced in connexion with Eburacum-to Lindum-Mancuthum
-Derby-Ribchestcr-the Wall-Olicana- Bracchium.
Roads east of York.-General remarks on the ancient Ways  239-244
Roman Camps and Stations.-Greek camp.-Roman camp and British
camp compared.-Variations in Roman encampments.-Temporary
camps-military stations-towns 244-247
Roman Burials-various kinds of-stone, lead, wood-ornaments
buried-urns-tiles 247,248

CHAPTER X.  ANGLO-SAXONS AND DANES. 248  249  250  251  252  253  254  255  256  257  258  259  260  261  262
History incomplete between the retirement of the Legions and the
arrival of the Saxons 248-250
Early separation of Deira.-Ida's conquest.-Retirement of the Kymri
to North Wales 251
The battle of Cattraeth-Rivalry between Danish Northumbria and Saxon Wessex 252, 253
Lost sites of famous battles :-as Maserfeld, Winwidfield, Brunanburgh
-Stamford Brig.-The Norman conquest 254
Monuments of the Anglo-Saxons 255
Tumuli-as at Driffield 256
Pottery, distinguished from British and Roman.-Combs 257
Language-characteristic terminations of words-' ton '-' ham '-'ley'
-'ing'-'field'-' by'-the prefix or suffix 'Kirk'   257-260
Races of Men in Yorkshire,-immigrants, Saxons, Anglians, Danes,
and Northmen.-The remains of Roman soldiery and colonists.-
Original varieties of British race 260
Actual aspect of Man in Yorkshire 261
Vocabulary of East Yorkshire 262

APPENDIX.  263  264  265  266  267  268  269  270  271  272  273  274  275  276  277  278  279  280  281  282  283  284  285  286  287  288  289  290  291  292
Heights of Mountains in Yorkshire
Formation of Stalagmite 275
Quality of Water 275
The Nymph Elauna 276
The Circle of Stones 277
The Milliary Stone 277
Brimham Rocks 278
Roman Villas at York 278
Waterspout of Starbottom 279
St. Helen's Ford 279
The River Went 279
Ravenser 279
Waste of the Coast 281
Distances to the nearest descents in the Cliff 282
Temperature of Whitby 285
Temperature of the Interior of York Minster 285
Temperature of York 288
Temperature of the Sea 288
Temperature of Scarborough 289
Rain 291
Velocity of the Wind 291
Site of Delgovitia 292
The Battle of Cattraeth 292


Explanation of Plates.  293  294  295  296  297  298  299  300  301  302

Topographical Index.  303  304  305  306  307  308  309  310  311  312

Index of Personal Names. 313  314  315  316  317




PLATES


Click for plate at 100 ppi

Elevation of Ground in Yorkshire
(Plate 1 - Frontispiece)
400 ppi plate

Form of the Surface
(Plate 2)
400 ppi plate

Contrasted Outlines of Hills
(Plate 3)
400 ppi plate

Buttertubs Pass
Penyghent
(Plate 4)
400 ppi plate

Camp and Huts on Ingleborough
(Plate 5)
400 ppi plate

Weathercote Cave
(plate 6)
400 ppi plate

Plan and Section of Ingleborough Cave
(plate 7)
400 ppi plate

High Force
(plate 8)
400 ppi plate

Barnard Castle
(plate 9)
400 ppi plate

Hardraw Force
(plate 10)
400 ppi plate

Gale Force
(plate 11)
400 ppi plate

Mill Gill Force
(plate 12)
400 ppi plate

Aysgarth Force
(plate 13)
400 ppi plate

Brimham Rocks
(plate 14)
400 ppi plate

Hilnsey Crag
(plate 15)
400 ppi plate

Cow and Calf Rocks Ilkey
(plate 16)
400 ppi plate

Ancient Crosses, Ilkley
(plate 17)
400 ppi plate

Rosebury Topping
(plate 18)
400 ppi plate

Malham Cove
(plate 19)
400 ppi plate

Gordale Scar
(plate 20)
400 ppi plate

From Wharncliffe Lodge
(plate 21)
400 ppi plate

Thornton Force
(plate 22)
400 ppi plate

The Matron Flamborough
(plate 23)
400 ppi plate

The King and Queen, Flamborough
(plate 24)
400 ppi plate

Filey Brig
(plate 25)
400 ppi plate

Scarborough From the South
(plate 26)
400 ppi plate

Brunswick Bay
(plate 27)
400 ppi plate

Straithes
(plate 28)
400 ppi plate

Rockcliff
(plate 29)
400 ppi plate

Geology of Yorkshire
(plate 30)
400 ppi plate

Sections to Illustrate the Craven Fault
(plate 31
400 ppi plate

The Territory of the Brigantes
(plate 32)
400 ppi plate

Pottery: Anglo Saxon, Roman and British
(plate 33)
400 ppi plate

Relative Magnitudes and Situations
of Roman Camps North of York
(plate 34)
400 ppi plate

Earthworks near Acklam
(plate 35)
400 ppi plate